- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pitch 1 - Make an awkward move to gain a chimney, climb the corner/face to another chimney. Belay on the huge ledge. 80'
Pitch 2 - Start in the right chimney (the left is Squeeze Of Lime). At the top of the chimney, move right and climb up on jugs. Belay on a ledge with small cams. 100'
Pitch 3 - Go up the ramp to the right and gain a hand crack. Climb the crack to a huge ledge and belay from a tree. This is a good pitch. 140'
Pitch 4 - Go up and right to a boulder and climb the corner to another ledge. Belay on a ledge.
Pitch 5 - This pitch is mostly 4th class. Belay on a huge ledge from a tree. 90'
Descent: Scramble and bushwhack down and left (east). A pocketed chimney leads down to the main rappel route.
Location
This route is located on the right side of the buttress. From the approach hill, follow cairns up 3rd class slab through a switchback and up a ramp. The climb starts in a chimney at the very top of the ramp system. To get off walk down and left to a chimney, down climb the chimney and rappel down Under Raps.
Protection
Standard rack doubles of #4. The FA team thought C3's were nice to have. Two ropes are needed for rappel.