- Edit (TBD)
Description
The FA was done as 2 pitches to the top of the crag, with the first pitch being a long pitch (180-190ft), but after this climb was put in “Rock Candy“ was established and it’s first belay stance is only 2 ft “off route” and it makes a lot of sense to utilize it, especially as it comes after a long traverse. I’ll describe it that way ( as 3 pitches) but feel free to run P1 and P2 together."Notches" gives it a 5.7, but I added the " + ". If enough people rate it 5.7 it will automatically "revert".P1 - Start below the Paul Cormier bolt. [ photo((s) ] Climb up to the bolt on the darkened rock. ( A “Kong” type device, or a long, stiffened quick draw might prove useful as I found the thinnest moves on the climb to be a couple of feet below the bolt.) Above the bolt trend rightish to small tree(s) [ sling for pro ] and continue up on lichen-ey rock on easy cracks. Place a good piece, then traverse right to the Rock Candy belay. You’ll pass by the last few bolts on Steve’s Twilight [see Note], if wishing to do the climb in the style of the FA avoid clipping them. 100 - 120 ft 5.7 / 5.7+ PG/R Note: I THINK this is the correct "path", when I started it there looked to be a few "long-ago brushed footholds" but "Notches" isn't totally clear, it is possible that the traverse is higher. P2 - Note the bolt ( with a more “ traditional hanger” ) on the slabby face left of the corner. That is your objective. Climb up and over to the face and up to the bolt. Continue up. The FA ended their P1 at a “natural belay” [I hope not at the shallow horn at a ledge ! ] , but you can continue up to the next bolted belay of Rock Candy. 80 - 90 ft. 5.6 / 5.7 P3 - I suspect most climbers would simply rap Rock Candy to get back to the base for more climbing, but if you want to go to the top take a pretty direct line up the slab. 5.4 +/- 90 ft
Location
On the slab about 10 ft left of Steve’s Twilight ( or about 25 ft left of the root system of the blown-over pine tree of Sea of Green) look for a bolt with a blue-tinged, home-made hanger (photo) about 20 +/- feet up.
Protection
Std rack. You might like 3 or 4 over-the-shoulder slings to sling tree(s) and for the last piece before traversing right towards Steve’s Twilight / Sea of Green.
Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face
- 11Electrician’s Route5.7+Trad