- Edit (TBD)
Description
The appeal with this climb is that it stays in the shade almost all day
Pitch One
: build a belay anchor at the base of a corner system that opens to the right.
Scramble up some mossy ledges and blocks and begin aiding up the corner. There’s a fixed knife blade I left on this section. Perhaps someone taller than I won’t have a need to clip it.
You’ll soon come to an arcing roof, climb through it, placing a mix of cams and good nuts until you reach the arching, hollow flake above and climb it until you reach the lower out bolt. Belay here.
- A note on the hollow flake. I nearly fell when a .3 Camelot tipped-out when the flake "flexed out"/ expanded a bit, so be a little cautious. otherwise the aid is very straight forward, and a free ascent is very possible.
Pitch Two:
Lower off the bolt down to the right and commence climbing in a dihedral below the small, 90 degree angle roof. There should probably be a bolted belay anchor after this traverse as the crack here is quite thin; I used an offset BD #1/2 cam. From here there is an angle iron piton that makes reaching an easy hook move even easier. Aid up through the roof and continue climbing through the filthy splitter fist crack until you reach the ledge. There’s a tricam and mediocre feeling angle iron piton that were used for rappelling.
Pitch Three:
to avoid the menace of the shrubbery, use the layback/ jam crack that goes up the left side and then when the crack ends make a slight traverse right and into the main chimney system. It should be noted that the upper chimney section is probably R rated, but the rock is good and grippy, (I climbed it in a pair of Merrel hiking boots). Continue to the top.
Descent: Sling the service berry shrubs and rappel. Bolted rappel station soon to come.
Location
This climb is located 200 feet before the bridge and across the river and is the most prominent buttress along that particular section of the canyon.
The rock is most easily accessed with a boat and If you wait till mid July you’ll have the easiest time fording.
There is a pullout on the right side of the road just before the manning crevice bridge. Park here, unload your gear, and put on. P
addle right across the river and eddy out down river from the rock.
Protection
Fixed pitons, 1 bat hook, doubles in Camelot’s from 00-3, singles in Camelot’s 4-6, and a double set of stoppers.