Buck Fever

I've climbed this route a dozen times or so since '95. Its easy access and has a cool variety of crack sizes and friction face all make it a must do and do again route. Buck Fever lies 100 feet left of the "

Classic Dihedral

" and around the giant boulder sitting up against the slab. It climbs an inviting crack up to a small, crescent-shaped roof (belay), then 3 bolts to the second roof (belay 2).

P1. The first pitch begins with cool hands and a smooth face (climb the crack as much as possible) for 25 feet to a good stance where you can sink a bomber #4 Camalot with a runner. Then head left for the 5.9 or right for a cool 5.10 variation, they rejoin up another 20 or so feet. The left is a finger dihedral that leans until you pull over a wide hands or layback bulge (note: ropes often get stuck here pulling them on the descent). This is pretty secure climbing so far, but it takes a little creativity. Next squirm and grunt through some rough wide stuff that fits med size gear in the back. Climb to the crescent roof and place a small cam then go out the right side and onto the face (always a thrill going from crack onto a face!) then back left to the obvious anchors.

Pitch 2 is all friction face baby! Take only 3 draws cuz that's all there is...3 bolts. The first bolt is a little left and about 15-20ft out from the belay. Don't blow the clip or you'll slide right past your belayer, who will have enough time to cut the rope if you're a whiner. Clip the next 2 bolts then run for the anchors on easier climbing.

Rap the route.

There is also an cool bolted alternative start to pitch 1. It's rated a solid 5.10 and starts on top of the giant boulder left of the origional start (you can see the line of 5 or 6 bolts when looking down from the belay stance atop pitch 1). The friction is excellent to make believe! The crux is between the 1st to 3rd bolts. It ends at the same bolt anchors atop pitch 1.

A good trad rack with small to medium cams or nuts (it eats either), a #3 Camalot is useful pro for the bulge 40ft up. Be sure to have at least 3 QDs for the 2nd pitch. Good bolt anchors at 75ft and 140ft.