Good, Bad, & The Ugly

Start 15-20 feet left of

Classic Dihedral

. Climb a discontinuous crack for 30 feet. Continue up a steep slab past 4 bolts. The .12b crux involves sustained moves on small holds & smears between the 2nd & 4th bolt, on a near vertical slab. At the 2nd bolt, I have always moved left then up & back right to the 3rd bolt. At the 4th bolt, mantel up onto a horizontal dike, & belay at a 2 bolt anchor.

This 1st pitch was originally an aid pitch with a 5 rivet ladder to the 4th bolt. The hangers were very weak & ugly being made from metal duct straps. The aid route traversed left on the dike. We established an independent 2nd pitch that climbs the upper face.

The 2nd pitch moves up left for 10 feet (.10d) to a tiny shelf & a bolt. A long runout (5.9 R) leads to the last bolt. Continue up easy ground to the top.

Start 15-20 feet left of

Classic Dihedral

.

Pitch 1: cams to 2.5", 4 bolts, and a 2 bolt anchor. Pitch 2: 2 bolts. The bolts on the climb are either 1/4" diameter buttonheads or 3/8" diameter nail drives.