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Peak Mountain 3

Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry

FA Steve Allen & partner, 1970s
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This super-fun slab line mixes it up between Flatirons-esque friction and classic granite edging to offer a leader of any level a very enjoyable pitch of climbing.

Begin on the flake just right of

Two Minds Meet

by reaching up and grabbing some huge, delightfully tacky crystals in a shallow groove. Climb the groove until it runs out, and transition to a section of friction moves for a few bolts before reaching a horizontal break, after which the angle, and difficulty, progressively eases.

This line originally went at 5.7 X, but was retrobolted sometime fairly recently (hangers and bolts are free of corrosion or rust). While this climb is now an excellent beginner sport lead, it is, unfortunately, also very out of character for the area, with a bolt every ~6 feet, even through 5.5/5.6 terrain.

Location

Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry ascends the moderate face between

Two Minds Meet

and

Between Nothingness and Eternity

on the lower tier of the South Slabs.

Protection

You need more than a 70m rope!

Per

Mojo Stylee

: as of Feb. 19, 2011, all of the bolts but one, including the anchors, have been removed from this route.