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Peak Mountain 3

Between Nothingness and Eternity

FA Craig Luebben, Malcolm Daly, 1989
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a really good slab with quite a bit of variety, and it's very well-protected! The crux comes right away at the steepest part with a couple super thin, hard cranks, high steps and thumb mantles. When the angle kicks back, the finger holds seem to disappear and it is .11/.10 friction action. The upper section is 5.4ish terrain.

#1

of the

"CO Northern Front Range 5.12 Pure Slab Trilogy"

(my suggestions and all non-Splatte routes).

#2

is

Frisky Puppies

(Donahue/Harvey). A funky, sustained friction-paddling and smedging pitch at Lumpy Ridge on the Book.

#3

is

Blood For Oil

(also Luebben) on Combat Rock, for a friction slab and patina steep face/slab pitch and a bulge to steep slab 2nd pitch.

Honorable mentions:

**

Greensleeves

on Rock Of Ages (steep slab crimpin')

**

Radlands Of Infinity

on Blob Rock (1st pitch is crux and it's a scratch-fest/ 2nd pitch is thin crack and funky slab---link pitches)

**Razor Hein Stick on Bitty Buttress (short but fierce friction bumps)

Location

This is on the South Slabs, Lower Tier and off the left side of the mini-ledge. It is the right side water streaks... and the leftmost bolted route.

Protection

Bolts...I would recommend running up the ramp to set up the anchor first (perhaps there is a bolted anchor).

Per

Mojo Stylee

: "there's no fixed pro past the 3rd bolt (if there still is a third bolt)."