- Edit (TBD)
Description
I hadn‘t climbed this route since the FA. Out in White Rocks celebrating a birthday and the Bernese Girl thought it felt run out, so we added a few.
Both ascents and bolting sessions were from ground up. Despite a biting cold north wind on this North Facing route, it was very enjoyable . The name is partly derived from an early approach with Franziska in 2008 When she slipped and broke her ankle. She had never climbed it until now.
Pitch #1: Find a single belay/Rappel bolt (65 Birthday girl request:))at the base of the Route. Follow the crack/seam following bolts and the occasional placement
(
probably bolts are sufficient) to a two bolt belay. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch #2: Continue up the faint crack and then trend right to the arete and find another two-bolt belay. 5.6, 30m.
Pitch #3: May be linked. Follow the arete to the top of the route which is a saddle that peers down into Cool Aid Gully. 5.4, 25m.
Rappel the Route.
Location
The north facing Buttress right of African Gypsy.
Protection
QDs and a few small Camalots.