African Gypsy

Great route climbing the north face of the formation. Usually shaded which makes for pleasant climbing conditions throughout the day.

It was bolted on lead, so bolts are at great stances, but it also means that it's a little run out at times.

Beautiful route to climb at sunset

P1: The bolt spacing at the beginning of the route makes this the crux. Pull on some thin crimps 3 or 4 feet above the second bolt to gain better holds and the next bolt. I almost missed the last bolt, its hard to spot, but just keep climbing until the good ledge and bolted anchors. 5.7+ 30m

P2: This is a pretty pleasant romp up the slab. Very mellow and more spaced out bolts. I think I remember a long(but easy) runout towards the end. 5.6 25m

P3: Enjoy the views, this is another easy pitch. Mantle onto several ledges as you make your way up the final hundred feet of the dome. To reach the true summit, scramble up 20 more feet of lichen covered slab and a little ledge(It is very slick, careful on your way back to the anchors). There's a nice pothole at the top that offers a nice place to sit if its not filled with water. 5.7 25m

Descent: Making 3 rappels down the route is probably the best way down. Tie your ends for the final rap so you don't accidentally go tumbling down the steep approach.

North face of the formation, immediately to the left of the big dihedral. Park at the base and scramble your way up the slab to the base of pitch 1. I suggest belaying from about 10-15 feet below the first bolt for the most comfortable belay spot.

I think we used 8 draws total, plus gear for bolted anchors