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Peak Mountain 3

Cocksmasher

FA: Bryan Bird, Jared Greer, and Dean Woods, 2004. 2nd and 3rd pitch: Joe French and Bryan Bird, 2006.
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UPDATED 

Description

Cocksmasher starts just to the left of H.N.C in a left facing corner. This route is one of the easier and more pleasurable OW routes on this wall and the rock quality is pretty good. Pitch 2 and 3 can be combined with a 60m rope. The OW sections are super secure and don't even require big gear. Who knew OW could be so fun?

P1 Climbs a featured fingers to tight hands dihedral up to a 2 bolt anchor with webbing. This route shares an anchor with H.N.C.

P2 starts up a short slightly overhanging tight hands crack in a right facing corner and reaches a ledge. Create a gear belay or continue up and link pitch 3.

P3 starts off the small grassy ledge and climb up through wide sections with a tight hands crack in between before reaching a interesting move into a roof/bombay chimney with a finger crack on the left side, anchors are just after this OW section up to the left on a stance.

Location

This route is located a few hundred yards to the left of the second tunnel window.

Park at the second to last turnout before the Zion-Mt. Caramel Tunnel. Follow a trail that leads through a wash and past some large house-sized boulders. Continue on the trail around the I'n'I and U'n'U buttress. Look for a left facing dihedral with a small overhang up 200ft.

Protection

Runners, Nuts, Double rack from fingers to big hands, single #4 (optional #5 & #6 for second 2 pitches.)

P1 bolted anchors, P3 bolted anchors. Rap the Route with 2 60m ropes