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Peak Mountain 3

Lap Dance

FA P1: Unknown. P2 & 3: Bryan Bird & Joe French
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Lap Dance follows a beautiful corner system for three pitches. The route is like a climbing tour through the desert, with each pitch exemplifying the style of a different climbing area. Roughly.

P1: Begin in Indian Creek. A clean tight hands splitter in a varnished right-facing dihedral. A long aesthetic pitch with steep sections punctuated by small rest ledges. 5.11-. 155'. Bolt anchor.

P2: Move on to Red Rocks. Changing corners and a thoughtful stemming roof. Featured face climbing around hand cracks. Start up a right-facing dihedral and switch to a left-facing dihedral. As the gear peters out, stem into a improbable roof, clip a bolt and pull onto the face. 5.9. 110'. Ratty slings on loose rock and shrubs.

Move the belay across a sandy ledge to the base of the next wall.

P3: Welcome to Zion. Climb through some ledges and vegetation to a short chimney and roof. A fun pull through the roof leads to a nice, long hand crack in a right-facing dihedral. Enter a squeeze and exit onto loose and vegetated ledges. Scrap up to a nice ledge. 5.10. 130'. Bolt anchor.

Rappel with two 60m ropes in three raps.

Consider bringing some webbing/rope/cord to clean up the P2 belay.

Location

This route is located a few hundred yards to the left of the second tunnel window. The route is identified by the long varnished right-facing dihedral of P1. It's visible from the parking area.

Park at the second to last turnout before the Zion-Mt. Caramel Tunnel. Follow a trail that leads through a wash and past some large house-sized boulders. Continue on the trail around the I'n'I and U'n'U buttress. Keep your eyes peeled for the black varnished splitter corner. That's Lap Dance.

Protection

1x 0.5" - 0.75"

3x 1" - 2"

2x 2.5"

1x 3.5"

Optional extra 1.75-2".

The guide recommended a 4" and a 5" piece. Neither are necessary.