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Peak Mountain 3

Odysseus

FA TR Luke Wolcott + Ken Roberts
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Interesting features and moves up a rather long pitch with a bit of routefinding.

Upper two sequences are much harder than the rest, and the first of them might be unavoidable.

Start up the diagonal crack (a bit awkward), then weave up through various features to the overhang at the top of the face, just right of the obvious wide gully.

. . ? possible Variation to try? Before getting near the top of the face, go left into the big gully, and try to climb up that directly through intimidating (smelly?) chimneys. Possibly might be less difficult than the face crux? Or maybe harder?

Through the overhang, then Left across gentler slab at the top of the big gully, and finish with a tricky strenuous sequence directly up to the big tree.

. . Variation (3rd class): Finish instead by scrambling right-ward up the slab at the top of the big gully, then around the right side of tree.

Descent: Scramble down obvious gully to the south (3rd-4th class), being careful with loose rocks -- see instructions for Top-Rope access on

sector 7 description page

.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Diagonal left-trending crack about fifteen feet left from right (S) end of sector (where the base of cliff rise up steeply), and ten feet right from obvious wide right-trenging gully.

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See sector routes Photo

Protection

No fixed hardware for top anchor or for leading as of 2016.

Top-Rope ...

warning

: 70 meter rope is

not

sufficient for belaying TR from the bottom.

Belayer must be stationed by the top anchor, and use a belay device and gear configuration suitable for belaying a climber

below

the belay location.

Large shady tree available as possible top anchor.

For access to top of cliff see ideas on

sector 7 description page

.

Leading: Protection for Trad leading is unknown.