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Peak Mountain 3

Methuselah

FA TR Luke Wolcott
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Esthetic direct line with some interesting sequences.

From the base of the big gully, look up and trace the almost-conntinuous vertical crack which finishes about ten feet left from the notch at the top of the gully.

So climb up that crack, perhaps evading one or two dark (smelly?) wider sections.

Descent: Scramble down obvious gully to the south (3rd-4th class), being careful with loose rocks -- see instructions for Top-Rope access on

sector 7 description page

.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Obvious wide right-trending gully about 25 feet left from right (S) end of sector (where the base of cliff rise up steeply).

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See sector routes Photo

Protection

No fixed hardware for top anchor or for leading as of 2016.

Leading: Protection for Trad leading is unconfirmed so far, but the Top-Rope First-Ascensionist felt that it should protect reasonably with a standard Trad rack.

Top-Rope ...

warning

: 70 meter rope is

not

sufficient for belaying TR from the bottom.

Belayer must be stationed by the top anchor, and use a belay device and gear configuration suitable for belaying a climber

below

the belay location.

Large shady tree available as possible top anchor.

For access to top of cliff see ideas on

sector 7 description page

.