Automaticity

The proud, prominent corner system cleaving the pillar of Centipede Spire. The system is quite obvious on the approach, and starts with an obtuse corner in the uppermost Schnebly banding and continues into a more defined Coco corner with a looming roof. A unique line that runs a full range of sizes and styles from sub-tips stem-shuffling to fist roof thuggery. It should provide challenges for all hand-sizes (unless you fingerlock green C3s and handjam #4 C4s that is...).

It is west facing, and will hold shade until early afternoon (around 2pm) during most of the typical Sedona season.

P1--A bit of face and podded corner will quickly deposit you into the crux, which consists of about 15' of sub-tips in a pretty smooth-walled corner. Invent beta to pass this (power-stemming and some body English scumming help). Fortunately, the Schnebly is as solid and clean as it gets for these micro-cam placements! Continue with gradually opening tips and fingers until the corner rolls over, and romp up the widening crack between stances and jugs (that once housed plentiful loafs and blocks--diligently turned into talus by Blake on the first attempt). Belay on a stance. .12-, 100'

P2-- Ramble over a large block and size up the slanting roofcrack above. Fistfight your way out it and pull into the beautiful corner above. Mostly baggy handcrack with some wider bits and flared spots lead to the dramatically steep exit. The crack narrows quickly here as you pull onto the belay ledge, but there are ample features all around to help the cause. A pretty memorable pitch and true blue-collar classic! .11, 120'

    ***Due to the steepness of P2, you can't rappel from the top of P2 to the anchors atop P1. Either continue up or rap to the ground with           two 70m ropes. ***

P3--Up the corner to a bulge, cut left and round the arete to the belay anchor atop P2 of Metamerism (which is joined from here up). There's a bit of suspect rock to avoid on this connector pitch, but generally it's on pretty good patina still. .8, 50'

P4--The crux pitch (P3) of Metamerism. An easy chimney (with some friable rock) leads past the only 2 pro bolts (use extended slings) on the route into the looming, A-frame roof above, reach out and sink some cams in the fat-finger crack out the roof, and awkwardly work out it using a fortuitous patina footrail to pull the lip and exit the alcove on jams and patina jugs. Belay up and right on a small foot ledge. A very unique and cool pitch that looks like it could be way harder, but pans out. 5.10+, 50'

P4--Easy shelves lead to a final roof with a handcrack and patina jugs. Flop onto the flat summit. Belay from cams. 5.10, 30'

Rap off of chained anchors that are about 40' or so south of where you top out. Skip the anchors atop P3 and hit the ledge atop P2 and walk over to the chains. The final rap to the ground is a full 35m--watch the ends of the rope! You will probably end up in an oak.

It's hard to miss this corner system on the lower west side of Centipede. Follow the directions in the spire overview page on how to approach, and look up. 

(1x) .1 or purple C3 (2X) .2-#2 (4X) #3, #4 All cams in BD C4 sizes. (1X) 70m rope