Metamerism

Centipedes are metameric, in that their body is a linear series of fundamentally similar segments; this route features four pitches of uniquely varied climbing, but all at a relatively similar grade. The variety and generally high quality rock make this a good Sand-land tick for the grade, and it will continue to improve with a bit of traffic cleaning to buff out the plentiful patina.

Northwest facing, this thing gets pretty good shade until mid-afternoon (depending on season) and is a great morning mission for the hotter days.

P1--A steep start with reachy moves between handjams in a left-facing corner leads to a left-leaning, lower-angled flare with a baggy hands/fists crack, continue up a chimney section and finish with a strenuous squeeze/flare behind a well-wedge triangular chockstone. Belay on a luxury ledge. This is the most blue-collar pitch of the route; it will warm you up, but hopefully not deter too many with the heavy dose of wider climbing. Consider it the entrance fee for some more "civilized" cracks and patina above. You can leave the #6 at the anchor. 5.10+, 125'

P2--A steep, right-facing dihedral with baggy hands/fists and stemming leads to a featured arete, bust a crack switch into a left-facing corner with hands and a bizarre honeycomb fin, continue up a slabby corner with abundant patina edges and a couple of step-up moves. Belay on a decent ledge. 5.10, 95'

P3--An easy chimney (with some friable rock) leads past the only 2 pro bolts (use extended slings) on the route into the looming, A-frame roof above, reach out and sink some cams in the fat-finger crack out the roof, and awkwardly work out it using a fortuitous patina footrail to pull the lip and exit the alcove on jams and patina jugs. Belay up and right on a small foot ledge. A very unique and cool pitch that looks like it could be way harder, but pans out. 5.10+, 50'

P4--Easy shelves lead to a final roof with a handcrack and patina jugs. Flop onto the flat summit. Belay from cams. 5.10, 30'

Rap off of chained anchors that are about 40' or so south of where you top out.  Skip the anchors atop P3 and hit the ledge atop P2 and walk over to the chains. The final rap to the ground is a full 35m--watch the ends of the rope! You will probably end up in an oak.

Head up the gully on the west side of the spire. We cleared a path through the oak to a good staging area at the base. 

2 bolts (1X) .2-.4 (2X) .5 (1X) .75 (2X) 1,2 (3X) 3 (2X) 4 (1X) 5, 6 Slings Chain anchors