North Face (Direct)

The North Face of Wedding Rock has been neglected by many climbers because of it's somewhat inconvenient access, loose blocks, often wet face, and lack of abundant protection. I removed all/most of the loose blocks and holds, so go out and enjoy!

There are three easily confusable starts, the route proper starts on an obvious crack feature in the center of the north face. The start crosses reachy wet holds (5.7) then continues up the feature (5.4) until a short headwall (5.8 crux). It then traverses rightward below a bush where you will want to belay on comfy dirt ledge. For the second pitch, follow the dihedral features up to the high point on the wall (5.7) passing a fun layback or jam crack (5.8 second crux).

EDIT 5/3/15: I cleaned some non-native veg and dirt from the headwall and revealed some fantastic gear placements and a few nice jugs that drop it down to just 5.8 and gets rid of the crazy runnout. Bring a #00, 0, and 1 metolius for the headwall.

The three pitch 5.7 mentioned in the guide is the Seagull's Traverse, which starts in the corner for one pitch, traverses right at the top of the slab for a pitch (little pro), then up to the top on the northwest side: Confirmed by talking with the Seagull Traverse first ascnetionist M. Butterworth.

Same access as Low Tide Crack

Single set of cams up to #3, with emphasis in the small cams (Set of TCUs work great). Save some .2-.3" gear for the first anchor. Gear on the second pitch is easy and straightforward.

Gear has become much easier now that the rock is cleaning out.