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Peak Mountain 3

Just Face It

FA Evan Wisheropp
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Description

After climbing the easy dihedral pitch of Psycho Path or Seagull's Traverse, start your second pitch by traversing right then up on runnout easy terrain up to a 25' dihedral. Remember the belay is complete crap and you need a lot of equalized gear and a lot of creativity.

Place whatever creative gear you can get as you can as you balance your way up towards the steep part of the dihedral where you are rewarded with plentiful easy placements. After solid gear, step out left and up the arete (5.9) or stay in the thin finger crack for more of a challenge (5.10). At the top of the dihedral, follow the crack past a short crux that is much harder than it looks! The gear placed during the crux will rip out of the solid, but slick crack of there is any moisture.

20' later the gear mostly dies out as the difficulty backs off to 5.8 as you work your way up and left to the notch just to the right of the Northeast Tower.

Location

20 feet right of Psycho Path.

Protection

Standard rack up to 1" with emphasis on .3 sized gear. Sections of the crack require a lot of gear fiddling to find enough of a construction to counteract the lack of friction in the crack.