Wax Cracks

Wax Cracks explores the complicated terrain to the right of the beautiful varnished face of the Velvet Revolver. A nice route with plenty of potential for more exploration.P1 (5.7, 80'): As per Twixt Cradle and Stone, climb the attractive and highly featured white offwidth in a left-facing corner just a few hundred feet further up canyon from Epinephrine. Two bolts protect. I've always referred to this corner as the Epinephrine Toilet - sadly, not because of the quality of climbing. I'll use this opportunity to rant a bit: It is COMPLETELY INAPPROPRIATE to do a #2 in the narrow and beautiful canyon that is home to Epi and many other routes! Do your business at home, or at the Late Night parking lot outhouse, or bring a WAG BAG. I know Epi is REALLY SCARY... but don't you dare poop in here you animal! P2 (5.6, 60') & P3 (5.9, 90'): As per Twixt, move the belay a few hundred yards right: Scramble up the loose gully, tunnel through a chockstone, continue on level terrain to a nice, varnished alcove/chimney. Climb this chimney to a ledge with a bolted anchor, link pitches easily by working up and right (bolt) to a pretty varnished corner. Follow this to a big ledge system directly below several routes (Twixt, Plein Air, Velvet Revolver).P3 (5.8, 100'): Move the belay rightwards around a corner (guidebook calls this 5.4 but it is more like 5.0) and link right up into the next pitch if you want. A bolt protects a move rightwards into a steep, flaring crack system. This is much easier than it appears. Belay above at a bolted anchor.P4 (5.9, 100'): Climb the "Wax Crack" - a nice, steep left-facing handcrack. Yes, the left wall is very slippery. Belay at a scrub oak/webbing anchor.P5 (5.9, 80'): Climb steep cracks to a left-facing flake, move right and tunnel underneath a huge, interesting chockstone to an awkwardly-located bolted belay on the "Mushroom" - a large tower separate from the main wall.Rap the route or continue, via free climbing or free climbing and a touch of aid, up the extension.

Begin as per Twixt Cradle and Stone, at a pretty white left-facing OW a couple hundred feet past Epinephrine.

1x cams to #3 (maybe #4) Camalot. Stoppers.