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Peak Mountain 3

Wax Cracks Extension (Open Project)

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Description

This is a two pitch extension to Wax Cracks. The first pitch is an open project, and the second is a spectacular, steep, twisting dihedral.Approach: Climb Wax Cracks; belay on the spacious ledge behind the Mushroom tower.P1 (5.12b/c, 120'): 7x bolts, a #1 Camalot, and a set of stoppers protect. Climb up into the pretty, varnished right-facing corner, then traverse rightwards out of a corner (crux) on glassy feet to a seam. Follow this up and back left into the corner which can then be followed to a bolted belay. All the moves have been freed on this pitch (about 12b/c), but there's still some work to be done (some loose rock). Additionally, the corner has been climbed directly (5.13), but leading it would likely require 2-3x more bolts. All in all this pitch is OK and will be much better once cleaned up and possibly re-engineered, but from a difficulty standpoint it is very much out of character with the rest of the climbing on Wax Cracks. On the plus side, one can aid it at 5.11- C0 to access the impressive second pitch.P2 (5.10+, 100'): Climb the curving corner system. It starts out left-facing and steep, then switches to right-facing and gets even steeper.Rap with a 70m rope (watch your ends on the crux pitch) and continue down Wax Cracks.

Location

Above Wax Cracks, from behind the Mushroom.

Protection

Standard Rack.