Desperado

Desperado is a two pitch variation to

Queer Bait

. Start as with

Queer Bait

but go straight up at the first bolt past a sustained 5.10+ thin section and a hard to clip bolt. Run it out 20 feet on easier 5.8 climbing to a no hands rest on a knob at another bolt. Climb back right clipping another bolt, then back left to a lunge for a jug in a horizontal break (5.11 R). Mantle and run it out another 10 feet to a right-facing flake (#1 Camalot on right side) then up to a cable anchor on a rock spike. 170 feet 5.11 R. Move belay up easy terrain to the base of the

Queer Bait

offwidth, place a 0.75 cam and big stopper in alcove to the right of the crack and extend the belay down to the ledge below.

P. 2 - Climb up the left face of the

QB's

OW, starting about 15 feet left of the crack below several horizontal seams. Climb up through the seams, placing small Aliens, and work up to the first bolt. Make bouldery moves up and right to a second bolt, then crux moves slightly left and back right to a big jug. Place a red Alien then traverse 5 feet right to finish on the

QB

corner above the OW. Set up a belay on the left above the corner (medium cams, stoppers).

Traverse up and right to the far right side of the upper ledge and belay at a two chain bolt anchor (behind the block) to rappel or continue up on

Queer Bait

and walk off. If you rap, a single line will not get you all the way to the ground, but it is easy to down climb the last 30 feet down a gravelly groove.

SR to 3 inches, with a double set of Aliens.