Dance of Chance

This is a nice route on typical South Platte granite. It is mostly crack climbing, including offwidth with some face here and there.

P1. Start up a crack in the left-facing flake, and continue straight up another crack to a ramp/crack that trends left to right. Either belay here or follow the ramp up to a big ledge below a large, offwidth corner. You can make the start harder by climbing a crack a few feet to the right of the flake at the bottom. This start joins the other start about halfway up the flake.

P2/3. This will either be the left to right trending ramp or the off-width depending on whether or not you combined pitches. For the offwidth, grovel up placing #3 and #4 Camalots. End on a ledge next to a big block on the left. The new #4s fit well. The old style is a bit too big (as I found out). This is the 3rd pitch of

Queer Bait

.

P3/4. Climb up onto the block and move left to a thin crack in the overhang. Power up the crack to the face above, and climb to a bolt. From here, it gets tricky. From the bolt, move left and slightly down into a chimney. You can set a semi-hanging belay here from mid-sized cams. When I did the route, there was a leaver biner clipped to the bolt. Using it, your second can have a toprope for the downclimbing and can then untie and pull the rope once at the belay.

P4/5. Climb up cracks in the chimney to the summit of the tower.

Pulling the roof on pitch 3/4 is the crux although some might feel that the offwidth is cruxy as well.

Dance of Chance starts about 15' left of

Queer Bait

. Look for a small inset area next to a left-facing flake and crack.

To descend, walk off towards northeast towards CP and down the slope to the base.

A standard rack up to a #4 Camalot. Extra 3-4" cams are useful. There is one bolt on pitch 4.

Per

Anfarwal Vr

: a #5 may be useful.