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Peak Mountain 3

Farewell to Arms

FA Jim McCarthy, Al DeMaria, 1960
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An exciting route.

Start at the same place as Bird Cage, at a huge corner.

P1: Climb 15' up the corner and traverse left. Although not the hardest part of the pitch, this is definitely challenging to lead, and spicier for both leader and second than guidebooks may describe now (2013) that a piton has gone to dust. 9/2016 update: the piton has returned. 3/2017: pin gone.

After traversing about 15', climb corners up to an overhang. Pass this on the left to a ledge and a bolted anchor. This anchor is often used to TR the routes to the left. 5.8, 90'.

Although short, there is a lot of climbing on this pitch.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack