We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

5.8 Crack Climb

FA early 1960s
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

  1. Climb the first pitch of Loose Goose to a small ledge below a large crack. 5.6

  2. Climb the crack above (you can't miss it) through two bulges (crux) to a stance. From there, it makes the most sense to traverse right about 30 feet to a pine tree and make one rappel (60 meter rope) back down as the climbing above the stance is neither hard nor interesting.

This can be done in one pitch.

Location

Go left past Birdland for about 50 or 60 yards until the trail rises slightly and then levels off. You should be below a large amphitheater. Keep walking, down a little, then back up steeply for a short bit, until you come to a flat part of the trail with a pounded out area; this is perhaps 50 or 60 yards from the amphitheater. Your can orient yourself using the obvious start of Up Yours - Loose Goose starts just to the left - and you can see the crux crack about 100 feet up.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack plus a # 3 Camalot or its equivalent.