We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Vanishing Act

FA Maurice Horn, Joanne Urioste, Bill Hotz, Andrew Carson Jan. 17, 2009
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Near the right side of the Disappearing Buttress south face are two attractive dihedrals. The route climbs the left one. Start from broken ledges below the two dihedrals. Climb an easy and slightly brushy pitch up to the ledge at the base of the corners. 100'. Climb a corner just left of the main leftmost dihedral for about 40', then step right into the dihedral as it widens into a chimney. Layback/chimney up the corner to the roof blocking progress and undercling/stem left to pass the roof. Continue up easier ground, going right to a belay at a big pine with a nice ledge on the crest of the buttress. 190'. A varied, beautiful pitch. Climb the steep white face above the ledge, then continue up the varnished face. Above this black face, follow a finger crack in the white slab to the steepening headwall. Surmount a bulge at the base of the headwall and follow cracks leading to the left edge of the buttress and the top. The route finishes at the same point as does Prime Rib. 190'. An exciting pitch. Some fragile rock can be expected, especially on the last pitch. The second and third pitch, both long, can be broken up if parties so choose. For purposes of avoiding rope drag, this strategy might be advantageous.

Location

Descent: scramble left and up to gain the ramp leading over to the canyon and descend easily to the base.

Protection

A standard rack to 4".