- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a nice route- nothing spectacular, but it has a couple of really nice pitches on it mixed with a couple of okay ones. Start at the base of the very obvious chimney on the east face of the buttress. Pitch 1: Climb the chimney to a ledge 5.8, 80' Pitch 2: Climb straight up the crack, crossing two short face sections until you reach another crack- ascend this to a nice ledge. 5.8, 80' Pitch 3: Head up and right, aiming for the very nice looking seam on an orange headwall. Look at it fondly as you pass it on the right, ascending a ramp to a dead tree on a nice ledge. 5.6, 100' Pitch 4: Pretty heads up- Climb up and left onto another ledge, then ascend the face in front of you to another sloping ledge. From here, head up the seam in the middle of the face, continuing straight up when it runs out. Follow the face to a crack, then follow the crack up through a steep section to a nice ledge. 5.8+, 130' Pitch 5: Fight through the scrub oak to a ledge above, then head up and right to the top. 4th class, 200' or so.
Location
The start of this route is the very obvious 50' tall chimney on the east face. Descend west, toward a ledge system below another wall, following cairns, eventually dropping left into a gully, then head back to the base.
Protection
Rack up to about 4", a 5" can be used, but is not mandatory.