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Peak Mountain 3

The Vanishing Point

FA Tom Kalakay, Bill Dockins, Skyler Pauli (2004)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An interesting climb in a great setting with some pleasurable climbing on sharp pockets and crimps.

Walk up the scree 75 yards past the start to

Cold-Forged Steel

until you spot a little platform above the talus with a bolt up and right. Poor rock quality right off the ledge.

Pitch 1: 5.9

Climb past a few bolts through two bushes and trend left following bolts. Opportunity for gear as well. Two bolt belay on a little ledge. Rock quality gets better as you go.

Pitch 2: 5.10b

Climb the beautiful black rock following bolts. This pitch wanders a good amount so lots of runners help. Climb past a large crack/ ledge with gear and continue up to a two bolt belay.

Pitch 3: 5.10d

Aesthetically appealing and just as good to climb! Climb up the vertical black rock following bolts on great pockets and positioning. Move up and left on easy terrain to a large tree belay.

Pitch 4: 5.6

Climb up and right from tree and cross the large gully up to a little ledge with 3 small trees. There is really one safe spot to cross the gully so don't climb too far up before crossing.

Pitch 5: 5.10b

Great fun. Go straight up from belay and cruise above. Find a tree sticking out of a small grassy gully and belay off of it.

Pitch 6: 5.4

Climb grassy gully trending left and escape to a flat scree ledge.

Pitch 7: 5.5

Climb the summit tower on easy terrain and enjoy the great views.

Location

75 yards uphill from

Cold Forged Steel

. Spot a little alcove and a bolt.

Same Rappel as every route on the buttress. Bring extra webbing just in case.

Protection

15 quick-draws, half alpine. Cams from .5 to 2 , along with a set of wires. Webbing for slinging trees at belays.


Routes in Frazier Lake


  1. 3
    The Vanishing Point
    5.10c/d
    Sport · Alpine · Trad