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Peak Mountain 3

Cold Forged Steel

FA Tom Kalakay, Skyler Pauli & Joshua Apple Aug. 2005
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Glue them fingernails down and get ready for some slab! Neat fins and knobs litter this route and are of general great quality. A very enjoyable climb and worth the effort to get there.

P1:

5.9

Climb the face up to the medium sized tree and ledge. 2 bolt anchor

P2:

5.10b

Climb on up the steep slab following bolts and supplementing with nuts/cams. Near the top go slightly right to gain the belay ledge. Large pine tree is above you. Longest pitch on the route!

P3:

5.10a

Climb up the steep pocketed face and head right angling for the large tree that you will set up as an anchor. Alternatively you can build a gear anchor just the left of the tree.

P4:

5.9

Climb up a water streak following bolts aiming for a small ledge with a tree on it.

P5:

5.10a

The money pitch! Climb up and left to gain a large slab littered with chert knobs and other little features. Drop them heels and get your slab on and finish up on top of the large ledge system. Tree belay. Head right for the summit (5.5) or left towards the large tree to rappel.

Location

This route starts in the middle of the main formation up and just a little left from the large cave if approached from Ainger Lake. Look for the bolt line just off the ground. Enjoy!

Protection

A light rack consisting of a rack of nuts and singles .5-2 should be sufficient. It can be climbed as a sport climb without placing anything if comfortable at the grade. I would roll mostly alpine draws as sometimes the routes and placements are a little wandering. 18-20 draws and webbing for the anchors. Can be rapped with single rope off of the large tree. From summit two ropes are required to rap.


Routes in Frazier Lake