- Edit (TBD)
Description
Right off the deck you'll realize this is another of Area 51's stiff 11's. The opening moves on overhanging blocks with bad feet and a gutsy first clipping stance give way to precise face climbing on small pocketed holds.
3/4 of the way up the route you'll be faced with a big crystally bulge to surmount. The bulge has a great feature larger than your head (that must weigh at least 50 lbs) that provides jugs for both hands. The moves up and around this overhanging bulge section are the crux...
...but wait, this feature is glued on, with a visible bead of liquid nails (?) about an inch thick all the way around it...and when you yard on it to reach the next holds, it flexes quite a bit.
Location
Near the end of the approach trail, after coming out of the shaded area where "Shape Shifter" and "Luna" are located, there's a rock outcropping. The bolt line goes up the left-facing section of this formation.
Protection
Quickdraws. Bolted anchor.
Routes in Area 51
- 5Earth First (We'll Log the Other Planets Later)5.11aSport