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Peak Mountain 3

Dragon Slayer

FA K. Duncan and D. Humphrey, 2013
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Dragon Slayer has fun slabs with chickenheads and plates leading to a crimpy crux followed by more heads and plates. Combining pitch one and two with a 60 meter rope works well.

Start behind a dead tree at the lowest point of rock on the east half of the face. The last pitch goes up the left side of the buttress high above.

P1) 5.6: climb to a bolt 15 feet above the ground then up to the roof. Climb the roof then up the gator skin slab above. Angle right past another bolt and up to the chains.

P2) 5.9: climb up and slightly right tying off chickenheads, then climb past two bolts to the anchor chains.

P3) 5.11-: continue up right past a bolt protected bulge (the crux for short people) then back left past another bolt to the left edge of the headwall. Continue up gator skin along the left edge of the headwall (the crux for most people) past three more bolts to the anchor chains.

Location

See the photo.

Protection

Bolts, slings for the chickenheads, a few medium nuts, and small TCUs.