In Search of My Rose

In Search of My Rose is a route that requires physical effort to lead and good route reading to flash. The 5.11d difficulty may depend upon figuring out just how to do the route before sapping off of small holds or powerful moves. The route may feel 5.12 at first. On the day of the FFA, the route was eventually and successfully lead by 3 people, each with slightly different beta.

Start up the corner as for

Jenga

, and continue directly up where that route moves left to the left arete of the West face of Totem Tower. Place a #5 BD stopped or similar size in the seam and then a 2" cam (or two) up under the right side of the low point of the overlap of rock above. Clip in with a long sling on the cams, and head left though underclings and jams up to clip the first of two bolts. Power up into the crux, and decipher the sequence of patina edges and small footholds that will bring you up to and past the second bolt. Clip this high from a good stance, and then continue up larger holds on less steep rock to the horizontal crack. Step left, and clip the anchors as for

Jenga

.

The first bolt should be clip-able for short folks, but the difficulty of the moves to follow will vary depending on height, and may be VERY difficult for people in the low 5-foot range.

This route starts as for

Jenga

then battles directly up the center of the West Face of the Totem Tower, passing 2 bolts on the way to anchors up top.

A light rack of stoppers and cams for the lower half of

Jenga

, then a #5 BD stopper or equivalent, a ~2" cam and 2' sling for under the roof, then 2x quickdraws for clipping the bolted upper face + slings for the anchors as for

Jenga

.