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Description
This little gem is located at the Leftovers Area on its south face. This route starts on some easy terrain leading to a gorgeous splitter that can't be missed. Ascend the easy section (a crack system that ends below and to the right of the spitter) and step into this beauty from the right. The first 30 or so feet is fingery and contains the crux. The crack gets a bit easier and veres slightly to the left. The crack ends and there are 2 ways to finish this pitch. Either vere up and left through more featured and protectable climbing to a big alcove and belay, or continue more or less straight upward (5.9 R) and belay as soon as you can. We had 3 people in our party and opted for the first option. In either case, you'll do well to have a 60m rope. Continue with about 30 feet of easy climbing (moving up and right from the alcove) and set a belay.
Protection
Bring a full set of stoppers, and a light rack of cams. Bring up to a #3 Camalot/3.5 Friend (for the belay if you do it the way I did). The descent is a walk-off the back to either side.
Routes in Leftovers
- 8Too Much Crack5.10-Trad