Black Magic

One of my favorite routes on Acker, Black Magic begins on the main S wall above the dry waterfall and below the "white eagle" (refer to topo on pg. 46 of Umpqua Guide).P1: steep sustained 5.10a friction, full 50m, z-clipping not an issue here. Bolt placements may seem runout to some but steep enough to provide safe air time. First pitch definitely PG or R.P2: sustained 5.10a/b friction up to the "white eagle" with a strenuous single crux move over the "wing" headwall. Bolt spacing becomes closer through pitch-2 especially compared to P1. There is a single strenuous move before the next belay. I've gotten feedback that this is probably a 5.10c move, but if you are 5'5" it is more like .11a. There is a bolt protecting this move that can be used to aid through it in a pinch. Together P1 & P2 make for about 300 feet (approx) of very sustained climbing.As a side note, while on the first ascent on P2 I had two young peregrine land on either side of me to watch while I climbed while their mother patiently cruzed back and forth watching. Definitely a magical day.P3: approximately 125 feet of 5.8 climbing to the top of the false summit and register, tying in with Pitch 8 of the Peregrine Traverse.As yet there are no rap chains on Black Magic so I recommend two ropes and some cheap webbing in case you want to bail.To descend use rap chains located at the bottom of the "dirty chimney" of Pitch 9 of the Peregrine Traverse and walk back to the base of Black Magic or up to the Acker Rock Lookout. Caution: Pulling you rope after rapping down from the register can be problematic and is not recommended.Better yet, finish the day on Eagle's Dare.

Use one of two approaches.1. from the Acker Rock Lookout toilet, hike straight down hill between Wizards Tower (left) and the main South Face (right). Black Magic will be the only bolt line you  see as you  come around the South Face. You may also see the belay bolts on top of the Dry Water Fall directly across from Black Magic. Belay first pitch of Black Magic with standing belay at base of main cliff. 2. from the Climber's access trail leading into the Sun Bowl as you first approach the first main formation (Observation Point) watch for the dry waterfall where you will find a short bolt line (a dirty 60 foot 5.8) to the right of the water fall leading to the base of "Black Magic".

Fixe 3/8 SS double expansion bolts, belay anchors have not been upgraded with chains.PG = exposure and leads generally maybe unsuited to someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.