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Peak Mountain 3

Maltese Falcon

FA Greg Orton and Harold Hall, 1997.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This was our first route up Acker and still a memorable favorite for me (go). Pitch 1: follow the seam straight up, 5.9. Pitch 2 (5.9) continues straight up ending at rappel chains just shy of the Peregrine Traverse ridge. Either continue on Pitch 5 of the Peregrine Traverse or make two 100 ft raps to base of Maltese Falcon (3 raps back to climber's trail). About the middle of P2 is an alternate variation off to the right (5.8) ending at the belay for pitch 6 of the Peregrine Traverse.

Location

Follow the climber's access trail past the dry waterfall to the obvious switchback taking you down hill. Instead of following the switchback scramble uphill to the large madrone. looking uphill from the madrone you will see the boltline for Maltese Falcon following the seam to your left.

Protection

bolts, belays have been upgraded with rappel chains and can now be rapped using using two 60m ropes from anchors on the Peregrine Traverse. On hind-sight, first pitch has features that will take gear if needed. PG = exposure and leads generally may be unsuited to someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.