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Peak Mountain 3

Monkey in the Forest

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Description

This is not my route, but since I just did at least half of it, I thought I'd put it in the database. Most of us have walked past this and thought "it looks good, we'll do it on the way down."

A mix of gear gets you to the diagonal hand to thin fingers crux above the pod. Grunt through to a so-so jam and then up to where the angle kicks back. Protect with #1 Camalots to the tree (where I rapped). The crack continues up and right toward the arete, but the

Cynical Pinnacle.

shows it just going up the headwall. Others will have to comment whether there are anchors on top and which is the best way.

Location

This route is #1 on the

Cynical Pinnacle.

. The route is on the lower buttress in front of the 'Pinnacle proper; you have to walk around this to enter the alcove to start

Center Route

. There are two obvious cracks you'll see on this lower wall, Monkey is on the left.

Protection

All trad: several small cams to #2 Camalot plus some stoppers. (I bailed off the tree ~75 feet; unsure whether there are anchors at top. Only had 1 rope.)