- Edit (TBD)
Rising Crescendo or Serpentine Crack
Description
This excellent route starts with the
Center Route
. Head directly right from the center route start, on a weakness/dike, 5.9 R. About 25 feet right there is a crack that arches back left. The first part is the crux--difficult gear and run out 11b PG-13. The crack arches left and crosses back over the
Center Route
. This is the first belay. From this belay, head straight up the thin crack and then up and left to the Fender dihedral. 11+ PG-13.
Per
Kevin Stricker
: the route starts in the
Turf Spreader
chimney then traverses out below the TS roof for a spicy pitch to link into the start you describe. This second pitch if taken all the way to the 1st belay of
Center Route
is full value and challenging as you cannot see your belayer for over 150 feet of climbing and you are traversing above sometimes marginal protection (11b R). You can easily break it up into two pitches with the first part being the scariest, and belay before the hand crack that leads to the
Center Route
P1 anchor.
Location
The start is in the same location as
Center Route
. There are usually sling anchors in the Fender dihedral for rapping, or continue up the Fender crux---full of shit and then
Wunsch's Dihedral
.
Protection
Full range 3 HB to #3 Camalot. 1 piece each hand sizes, doubles on TCU/Aliens. HBs. RPs.
Routes in Cynical Pinnacle
- 14Rising Crescendo or Serpentine Crack5.11cTrad