Arete, The

There are only two routes on the arete. A 15' route called 'South Arete' which will get you on top of the spire, and 'Raven' on the backside. The guide book mentions a fixed piton for the short route, which as of summer 2010 is no longer there. You can see the scar where it used to be. This makes accessing the top anchors for 'Raven' a bit sketchy. The only way up is a V2ish boulder problem with a small (6 sq.ft.) stressful landing on the saddle, or the route (5.7) which follows the right arete, however, now unprotected. A misstep would leave you falling down the cliff edge. You can access the Raven by a longer difficult approach down the gully between The Arete and Main Street.