Village Wall
Description
[Edit]WARNING: These routes are almost precisely 30 meters and can be climbed with a 60 meter rope, but TIE A STOPPER KNOT and mind your positioning (stand close to the wall) as you lower the climber to the ground as a precaution so as to not run the end of the rope through the belay device!
The rock here is mostly good, but are a few loose blocks; test holds before trusting them and yell "ROCK" "like someone's gonna die" if anything comes down. Even quarter size rocks seem like they've come out of a slingshot when they fall off Village Wall because of its length and angle.
You find Village Wall as you approach the larger "main crag." Sunny on the rock and shaded by trees at the base. Routes start vertical but with juggy holds, continue at a low angle (that is uncompromisingly well protected), and usually end high on a vertical finish. There is a great beginner's multipitch here (Village People: 5.6 at the 1st pitch and 5.5 at the 2nd).
Local climbing organizations
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