Climb the classic 3P 5.7 Racing Lizards. Instead of finishing up the slab at the arch on the 3rd pitch,

continue out the left facing arch until it is possible to gain the left trending crack at the arches end.

Follow this crack until you can surmount ledge just above mountain mohagany and build trad anchor in finger crack, 50’ down and left from where RL normally ends.

P4, 5.5-35m, Access pitch into the Lizard Gallery and rest of DOWL, continue up finger crack 5.4, until crack peters out and you can step left for more gear before the slab finish. About 50’ of run out 5.5 slab climbing with a secret #3 placement and one lead bolt are what guard the way to the large left facing orange corner above. Fun pitch was originally lead a handful of times without lead bolt, (two bolt anchor).

P5, 5.8-35m, Money pitch up the large corner. About half way through the pitch it is possible to step left out of the corner up fun blocky terrain to finger crack out a mini roof. (Original variation 5.6) Or stay true to the corner the entire way 5.8, both are wonderful variations, (two bolt anchor).

P6, 5.8-35m, Continue up the top of the corner through some bushes on easy 5.0 climbing until a 5.8 mantel protected by micro gear. Mantel to massive ledge and after 10 feet exit out and right on fun 5.7 boulder problem through steppy right facing ledges to top of tower, (gear anchor).

(P5 & P6 can be combined into one long rope stretching 70m pitch)!

P7, 5.7-50’, From top of tower continue up 50’ of 5.7 climbing to final anchors of Tumble Weeds. Fun last mini worth while pitch! Be mindful of death block guarding the bolted anchor!

Descent seven 35m abseils down TW!

Dream of Wild Lizards

Flying Lizard aka Flying Grasshopper

Lizard Warrior

Lizard Warrior is an amazing but awkward overhung fingers, to hands, to slot, to hands, to finger crack that wonders dramatically out the right side of the large corner.

Pretty sustained and sequential sporty climbing with little pro, will get you to an awkward mantel with pro to the top of the tower. Mantel might be more V1!

Description

Protection

Routes in The Lizard Gallery