starts on one lower 40ft peak, moves right across and up. crossing from the first little peak over to the main crux crack, which is about 30 ft of stiff climbing with nothing but jams. a small ledge after that, then some more cracks between rocks heading left, there is a sling on a rock, the only way out for me solo on a 60m rope. from there another stiff 40 ft crossing the "pyramid" on the rt side to the tree. great trad placement, placing in the crack is wild.

Spice Drops

Suzy Triangles

Icarus in Flames

Venkman

Start on a block, and work up the first set of small cracks, looking left towards sloping up and left notch. Then there is the "cat's tongue", a rest block. Go up some more cracky stuff, a thinner more stable one, then a looser section, then cross the fin (which can be skipped). There are lots of options for placing pro. It gets thin in the notch and up near the top. This finishes across a fin, with your back to a 60 foot shaft. Use a sling anchor of the only tree on the rock fin. There is no easy walkoff. You have a slight chance of falling 10+ feet while downclimbing. This whole wall is an island.

Suzy Triangles starts a good 40 feet left of the big, elevator shaft (left of "

Venkman

"). Look for a pink, crystal dike in the wall. Start there. Climb a small 15 foot wall and small ledge over to the main triangles. Go up the front of the first, then move left, up the side of the last 2 triangles. There are several good rest ledges and great pro placement for the most part. It is pretty stable. I have been cleaning rocks that may be dangerous as I develop the area. The top zigzag cracks require good balance and a bit of nerve to place nuts over the drop after resting on the top triangle. I question if this part isn't more 5.10, it seems thin. Finish with a 15 foot run across the top rubble left a bit to the "duck head" rock, where I left slings to rap down.

This section of the wall looked good for a few visits. I got on it, it was way loose, and I squeezed up a small crack to safety. On the way down, I was cleaning some gear, pulled my weird rope line to move back to the left to get off a small ledge, and rocks broke. I leapt, pulling a nut, and due to my having jockeyed some gear, my next cam that held me from tumbling down the hill still allowed me to fall almost 30 feet into a boulder field of quartz, rhodonite, and wild rose bushes. It resulted in major traumatic brain injury on impact. I am only here now due to my helmet.

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Location

Protection

Routes in Equinox Gardens