Hands to wild steep wall. This route is challenging for the grade. As of  May 30th  2010 this route now has 2 bolts added. As you exit the crack out right, bolts protect the wild moves onto the ramp.  This is one of the best 5.10+/5.11- pitches around.  A must do now that the bolts make it sane.

So Wild

The Real Thing

Real Black Velvet

Unknown Arete

Chipmunk Route

Around the Corner aka Unf.. Real

Unknown Slab/Ramp

Ramp -o -Stone

Super Nova

Nice Jugs

The Cooler

In Your Face

Is This For Real?

Reality Check

Futile Attraction

The Real Deal

Climb splitter fingers with an arete to a steep headwall.

This route is hard face climbing.  Nuff said.  Just right of

For Real

.

The start of the route begins to the right of "

Ramp o' Stone

" at the base of the obvious black, white and green water streak.  Climb past 3 bolts to the "pod" and prepare for the crux through the bulge.  Follow bolts up the white gator skin to a no hands rest.  The last bolt protects the exciting mantel move onto the ramp/bolted anchors.  Aesthetic line with great movement.

This route has fun arete climbing on juggy patina.

Traverse to the black streak, and continue up the crack & face to the top of the wall. I thought this climbed better than it looks. It makes for a good, fun, warm-up route.

Mouth of canyon - start up hand crack and follow "Around the Corner". stop above

Reality Check

or continue to

Real Thing

anchors.

Follow the obvious ramp over a small bulge at the ~8 foot mark.  Small gear protects this low crux, but it can be difficult to place and judge.  With the crux below you, run up the "juggified" ramp with ample protection.

Same start as

So Wild

- hands in corner, stepping onto ramp and follows out right to angling headwall.

Climb some moderate terrain up to the start of the right arcing crack and the first bolt. Follow the crack until it peters out, clip the bolt, and crank the crux move to the next crack system. Keep your composure, and continue out the final overhang past one more bolt to the anchors. This has sustained and super fun climbing with good pro.

Climb jugs to an overhang at mouth of canyon. Start on right-leaning flake - pull over bulge to horns. Pass horizontal - go over roofs. Rap from

Is This For Real?

.

The Cooler is a deep, narrow slot that has excellent toprope finger cracks down inside. A short, casual, 5.8 hand crack leads to anchors that are directly above this slot.  When you need some cool shade -drop into the cooler and enjoy some really sweet fingers and face climbing. The belayer can sit above looking down as the climber comes up toward him or her. This is a great little spot.

The opening moves on this route are stiff.  Great face climbing all the way to the chains.

This is the dihedral on the left wall.  It is awesome for the grade.  Why do you suppose it got the name?

This has steep, hard, face climbing the whole way.

The Real Deal is a sustained, face climbing testpiece that threads the needle between

Reality Check

and

Is This for Real?

Start with a fun boulder problem to gain the large ramp, then head out on the face. The initial moves are gymnastic, with off-balance reaches between sidepulls and underclings. There is a decent shake at mid-height before the crux. The crux involves miniscule, rounded edges with poorly located feet. You'll want crisp conditions!

The FA adhered pretty strictly to the bolt line, and the proposed grade reflects that. One could certainly find bigger holds by deviating into the crack feature out left at the crux.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The For Real Canyon