Start at the right side of the cave where the cave pinches off. More intimidating to look at than to actually do. Climb up the dihedral to the overhang. Passing the second bolt is a scary, but surprisingly easy layback move. Once you get up into the corner under the roof there's a really nice rest to be had with good feet. Take the hand traverse to the right and turn the roof. Standing up on the ledge outside the roof and going for the anchors is a little nervy, too, but again, more of a headgame than anything.

Blockade

Crimpy V5

Aussie Rules Football

The Schtick

Low Low Start (aka Desperation)

Murray Pinch

Football Problem

“The V3”

Pegboard

Janky glue problem

Warmup V1

Murray Pinch Traverse

Unknown

Reachy Sidepulls?

“The V2”

The Jew Claw

Double Bump

The Baseball Problem

Grovel in the dirt to start and move out and right to terrible slopy edges over the lip. Riding a heal hook in the start horizontal is near mandatory.

Start a jug block (like most of the problems) left of the football problem. Go up to two small but incut crimps and then either crimp your way through the crux or do a big move.

Start low and work your way up using a crimp and sidepulls to a big move to a jug. Guidebook says v6, might be more like v5.

SDS down and right of the Baseball Problem. Strenuous moves down low on crimps and pinches lead up and left to join the Baseball Problem and up through the plate between the left and right Baseball Problem variations.

Start sitting go from jugs to slopy pinch and out roof on very thin crimps. Very sustained for big block.

Big moves on good holds. Some what scarry move crossing back over your head. Start low on good horizontal fin and make a long move up and back behind your head with your left hand to the football, a slopy pinch block. Match next to it and go again to a distant square hold. Continue up to the horizontal and drop off.

Start where the main horizontal under the roof juts out into the roof a couple of feet and move to a triangular shaped sidepull jug in the middle of the roof. A big move out to the lip gains a two finger sidepull, from here you can go either right or left, right maybe easier for tall folks and left easier for short. 

  For the right version, work right on small sloping edges to a rounded match hold. Let your feet out and make a big move up to a flat spot on a high sloper. Easier climbing to the top and drop. 

  The left version involves heal hooking in the jug that your right hand is in and working left over the lip towards Pegboard.

Good movement through a couple neat crimps and a sloper on the side of the death block. Feels like I beat death every time I do it. There’s a painful horn and a crimp out right, but it’s feels harder to use them. 

Seems easier than the V2 to the left.

Move from the horizontal to an undercling. Then left to a 3 finger jug sidepull in the roof. Match momentarily to look over the lip for the next hold, jump to this and campus the left hand up. Move up a couple of moves then left into a sidepull/undercling and up to a right hand gaston and the horizontal. Drop off.

Don’t know the real name. The name I used is really more of a description. An interesting problem if you’re out of things to do in the v6-8 grade range. Starts right of the baseball problem. Big move to a filled 3 finger edge with the right hand. Another big move left takes you to some particularly ugly glue that at one point was a small bee hive. Traverse a couple moves over to the “baseball hold” and finish on the baseball problem. V6 is just a guess.

A good warmup with slopers and incut crimps. Similar to problems to the right, but with bigger and better holds. This problem is also a good down climb if you don’t want to drop off the problems to the right. 

Start on the “reachy sidepulls” boulder.  Make the big moves out the roof, hold the cut, and tic tac left on crimps to finish as per Murray Pinch.  Felt a bit easier than Murray Pinch possibly.  Fun boulder!

There are multiple bolts scattered about the Boulder Cave above the ledge. Of all of them, this seems like the clearest complete route to an anchor. A fun route if you can look past the epoxying.There is a chopped bolt below the ledge but if you can do one moderate move off the ground you can safely reach the ledge.Clip the bolt above the ledge, (the second if you're tall!) then traverse up and left. Pull the roof, clip one more bolt and finish at chain anchors. There are no fixed draws on this route.

Start off of a block that sticks out of the main horizontal under the roof and make along move to a triangular hold over the lip. Match or reach up left to the first sidepull and go again to the second. Get your feet up and make a barndoor dynamic move to a sharp square cut edge, match on another edge and move up to the big horizontal. Drop off.

Big moves on mostly good holds. An ok warmup if you have it dialed.

A direct start to The V8/The Baseball Problem. Harder moves down low to gain the same finish as The V8/The Baseball Problem. Really comes down to pain tolerance and accuracy, but the moves are much harder than the original problem.

A one-move wonder. A big overhang to moderate face climbing. The crux is getting over the roof after the first bolt and goes at about V4-V5. After that, it's mellow 5.10- climbing to the chains. The SummitPost page lists this at 10c, but the crux move is considerably harder than anything on Beth and about as hard as the Football Problem. The upper portion is filled with dirt and could use a good cleaning.

The name might be wrong. Core intensive roof climbing through a series of underclings and side pulls leads to a sloper pinch under the left exit of ‘the V8’.

Doing the crux move(s) is often correlated to how well you can see the holds from the underside of the roof, but in general the business is turning the roof and grabbing the "baseball" hold to then make the last hard move to get to the jug finish.

Generally shady. This "rock" is well traveled but it's weepy limestone and forms a cave that is quite subject to freeze-thaw that results in sometimes annual changes in routes. Nevertheless, it's still good climbing.

 The main cave hosts a good selection of problems in the V4 to V9 range with many eliminates, variations and link-ups. There is also the Murry Pinch V11 is a problem that involves a terrible pinch at the lip then tinny crimps and is between the Football Problem and the Reachy Sidepull problem.

 There are also 4 sport climbs in the cave. Blockade (far left) is listed in MP; the other three are not.  See photo for chain locations.

 To the left of the roof are several easier problem V2 to about V4 and as you continue left there are more problems but the rock has not recived as much "LOVE" and is thus a bit less reliable.

 If you can get over the huge amount of epoxy that has been poured into this area (very little would be climbable here without it) it provides a good change of pace from the typical slabby, sharp granite to be had near town. As well as a shady venue that is at least bearable durring the summer, though if you want to do stuff that is hard for you, better to wait till temps are in the 60's or lower as the rock is pretty polished.

Blockade

Description

Protection

Routes in Bouldering Cave