The right route on the tall part of the main wall. Step across into the chimney and work it for a bolt, then pull left onto the face and up past a small bulge and four more bolts to anchors.

This is Sparta

Super Tsardom

The Hot Gates

Sultans and Viziers

Umayyad Caliphate

The Sun Never Sets

Evil Empire

The Three Kingdoms

Silk Road

East India Trading Co.

Babylon 5.8

Byzantium

Ming Dynasty

The Fall of Rome

Conquistador

Meerkat Manor

The Mayan Pass

Manifest Destiny

Mongol Hoarde

Five Charter Oath

Climbs the center line on the tallest part of the main wall. Step across to two good crimps, then work straight up the vertical varnish face along a series of breaks. Work through the break and onto the high angle slab above, and work this to the anchor.

Start on the very blunt arete and follow the boltline up the mellow slab on large holds. Super chill.

Squeeze chimney.  Climbs gets a little narrow at the top but the crack can be exited from side nearest to the Umayyad Caliphate climb.

Climb the near vertical wall and through an overhang on massive jugs to the shared anchor with Five Charter Oath. Climbs like a gym climb

Climb the vertical plated wall for three bolts and a big no hands rest, then work up the steepness. After a few moves the angle eases and the chains are nigh.

This route starts on the left arete on the prow of rock to the left of the main wall. Climbs the interesting varnished face to the last bolt, then work up about 12' of fun slabby finger crack to anchors.

Splitter at a sport crag. Reminiscent of Yin+Yang but thinner, more smearing, and much smaller pro. A good excuse to visit Civilization Crags and the best rock on the cliff. Not much real crack climbing on this one, more of a V3/4 boulder problem with good gear, but it's an exciting line that will reward those that are adept at placing pro quickly from smears. Worthwhile.

Climbs to the highest point on the southwest face via some slab, some near vertical climbing on large varnish plates and jugs, with a large break about halfway up. Climbs like a gym climb.

Silk Road offers fewer big holds and more slab climbing than the rest of the routes in the area. Good for footwork. Well protected down low and where it's harder, and just a bit spacier when the climbing is easy - good for your mental game.Don't top-rope or lower through the fixed anchors if someone else is climbing it, just the last person!Give your rope a good pull from the right to avoid getting caught in the giant flake.

Starts 40 feet right of the arete separating the main northwest face of Civ from the southwest face. Climb the slab to a break where a few steeper moves on huge jugs take you back to slab climbing up and left to anchors.   The inconsistent face directly below the anchor can be climbed at a mellow 5.3, save for 10 feet of steep 5.8 terrain.

The most center route on the main wall. Pull up onto the face to the right of the chimney, and work up past bolts to a big break with a massive horn of rock. Step above this and head to the anchors.

This route is located on the south facing wall in the slot to the left of the main crag. The leftmost line; climb the varnish slab to a small break, then work the thin vertical section past the last bolt to the anchors.

This route is located on the south facing wall in the slot to the left of the main crag. The rightmost line; reach across to two huecos and climb over a little roof up the varnish slab to two juggy flakes. Use these to pull the overhang and arrive at the anchors.

The route climbs the left hand line on the tallest part of the main wall. Work the arete and the face  barely right on small crimps up the vertical wall for three bolts, and then enjoy the near vertical 5.8 face to anchors.

Climbs the blank looking far right face of the main wall. Pull up through underclings and sparse feet to the first bolt, then crimp up to another undercling. Work the crimps to the right of the prominant flake to the last bolt, then traverse left into the flake. A few moves and the chains are yours.

Fun little route that follows up the back side of Civilization.  Can face climb with ample protectability, or slot yourself into a series of three chimney/small hands cracks.  Not worth a hike in for, but if in the area and itching for a lil crack action, may be worth hitting up.  Definitely must have been others who have done it before, but adding it because it's such a perfect moderate route with already placed chains for easy rap. 

NOTE*  This route needs quite a bit of TLC and cleaning.  Lots of fragile rock, be careful and mindful of rock quality for protection.

This route starts ten feet to the left of The Three Kingdoms at an obvious (mediocre) hand crack. Follow this crack until it ends at a mantle. Traverse right and finish The Three Kingdoms (3b's).

This route is on the south facing wall in the slot to the left of the main crag. The center line; climb the varnish slab to the last bolt, and then pull the overhang on huge jugs to the anchor.

Climb the near vertical wall on a ton of huge jugs. The crux comes pulling over a small overhang. Climbs like a gym route.

Easy to see form the parking lot, the Civ Crag is marked by a huge northwest-facing varnished corner. Routes range from jugs on a slab to slightly overhanging, and the rock quality is excellent, comprising mostly of the beautiful brown varnish usually associated with canyon routes. Looking for a run of moderate climbs a step up from the crowds at the Panty Wall and Magic Bus? This is the crag for you.

Description

Protection

Routes in Civilization Crag