stars just right of the eyebrow, right side of arete/edge and goes up obvious face arete

Right around the "EYE"

Like A G6

moo shu buttresses

Baby Saucer Direct

3 move wonder

The eyebrow

Low Pass

Yukon Cornelius

Some Days Are Better Than Others

The Long Wave

Just Say Yes To Drugs

Butt Rock

Beesechurger (for Monch)

Heeley Speedbump

Teahupoo

They Don't Get Much Easier Than This

One Eyed Rooster

Standing Ovation

Wanksters Make The World Go Round

Wanna Throw Up?

A Wing And A Prayer

Straw Hat

Getting Out Of Texas

Sol Worship

Heathen In A Handbasket

One Man Down and a Hole in the Ground

Baby Saucer Traverse

The Truth Is Out There

The Screamer

Raw Truth

Start sitting/laying with good hands and interesting feet. Throw for a good high right hand or use a sea of marginal intermediates. Fun topout.

Start on the flat edge on the right side of the crack and move your way up in the crack in the rock. 

Start under the overhang and go straight up! Short, but fun!

starts somewhat low and goes up to sloper holds with a fun mantle.  thats really the best part.

Start on the lowest jug ~3' off the ground. you have the option to either push straight onto the face or work on the arete before breaking onto the face. crux is getting to the crimp left of the eyebrow.

Start on the jugs in the cave, move left to more jugs, throw a heel, top out through crimps and slopers.  Good luck not dabbing; this is about as low as a low-ball gets.

Very short problem with enjoyable moves. Sit start (or low start if you're short) on good holds.

Start with the dead bush between your legs and your butt on the ground. Go straight up over the point.

Start on the far left of the Wave boulder, left hand on a weird sidepull and right on a sloper. Go left under the crest of the Wave, then mantle out on the far right.

Start with both hands jammed in the crack below the rock scar. Go up and stay left of the arete on the face. Don't get sucked into the right of the arete and don't dab the right side boulder! Its easy to do both.

Start seated with a match on a low left facing flake. Get poor feet, move right to a slopey crimper, then make a huge bump to a good fist sized hueco. Top out!

Start with both hands on the right side of the crack and your left foot on the left side. Get your right foot up onto the right side and then it’s just a matter of adjusting the hand and foot holds slightly to mantle on top of the rock.

Start on the flat edge to the right in the crack. Move left under the rock to the slopey edge. Get a high Heel and then big right-hand move to right crimp. Bring left hand up level with right, bump one more left, and then move heel to slopy edge. Right hand to 2 finger edge at top of rock. Bump one more left to be able to mantle to the top. 

A problem that reminds of the crest/lip of a phat wave, (teahupoo) this problem starts with your butt on the ground and goes up just a few holds (3) to a nice top out.

Start on the far right side of the rail and go straight up. Fun mantle.

Start with right hand on a pocket jug, left hand on an obvious circle sloper, and find feet that will get your butt off the pad. Move up through a crimp, a pinch, and a sloper into three crimps around the corner. Top out using the sloped top. Have a good spotter with you, a fall on the last crimps/top out could send you into the boulder behind you. 

Start on the two slanting crimps with a high foot. make the crux move to the thin crimp slot then move on to the huecos and top out.This was called Standing Ovation because while sending the route, an unknown man with blue headphones was screaming the lyrics of songs (possibly heavy metal?) on top of the rock for about 15 minutes.

Start on two good edges just above the overhang. Campus or go for a super fun heelhook and go straight up!

A short problem, but it has some great moves. Start butt on the ground with your right on a bad sloper with a thumb catch, left on the lowest hueco left of the blunt arete. Move your hands up and then pull some weird (yet fun?) moves to gain the slab. Tricky beta.

Start matched on right facing side pull. Go up and left! Really fun!

SD with hands on the crimp rail above the lip. Make a big move to the next crimp rail above. bring up feet and top out. This is likely a grade harder if short.

Start matched on a flat ledge in the lip of the cave, get feet, throw a heel and mantle. Short, but a good mantel challenge. A sit start in the back of the cave would be a really good problem and would probably go at V5/6.

High start with right hand on right of the blunt arete on good sidepull crimp, left hand on crimp above and left of your head. Fun moves gain the interesting topout.

Start low with left hand on good sidepull and right down really low on the arete on your choice of sidepulls. Get your feet on the wall and then throw for a good hold high on the arete with your right. Top it out!

Start with your butt on the ground and pull up the arete.

Start on the left side of the Baby Saucer Boulder (around to the left of Baby Saucer Direct) and traverse uphill. Keep your feet under the overhang of Baby Saucer Direct and top out after you traverse through it.

Start matched on a flat ledge, get a good right heel, and then work your way around the lip of the boulder. Top out once you reach the pocket.

Start on the incut rail with your butt low. Look way up and right for a hold, then top out by going left. The first move on this is really reachy, so if you're short, it may prove to be very difficult.

This problem is short, but is lots of fun. Start sitting with good holds under the overhang (or use the lowest undercling for a harder variation). For an easier variation, start standing.

The rock skirt is OFF, that is technically the river bed that the boulder is sitting on.This route is the next iteration of 'The Truth is Out There'. It appears that many of the good holds on the face have broken or shed off leaving much smaller holds left over. I wanted to keep the original route catalogued for historical purposes as the movement of the route has changed greatly and the starting hold has changed.Start on the ledge low right of the rail with feet out left. Leading feet first, transition to the middle/left side of the rail. Make a big left hand throw to a 2-3 finger crescent and bring right hand up level on a sloping crimp. continue up bad holds to the good gaston near the top. top out!

Almost always sunny. Sometimes the area can be really busy with townfolk, but if you're there during good climbing conditions, it will be empty.

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Protection

Routes in Big Rocks Park