A nice combination of power and finesse is required to seduce this fine sport climb.

Climb up an overhanging dike past four bolts.  The loose flake to clip the second bolt requires care.  Crux moving past the last bolt.

Raging Bull Dike

Space Mountain

The Unicorner

I Smell a Rat

One prominent feature on this part of Saddle Rocks is a large left-facing corner system (

The Unicorner

). Start up that climb for 20 feet then traverse right on a fairly awkward ledge passing a bolt until you reach a spot you can stand up. From here the climbs goes more or less straight up past 7 more bolts on steep, exposed and sometimes a little loose patina plates. There is a slight runout near the top but the climbing is much easier.

Great steep climbing in an exposed atmosphere unlike much of Saddle Rocks which is known for slabs.

This was the back cover photo of the 1992 Vogel guide (1st printing).

This dihedral is worth doing if in the area.

Up onto the left side of

Space Mountain

sloping ledge, then steeply up the dihedral, getting established in the wide section is probably the crux as the left wall is devoid of holds, follow the wide crack up and then it it starts to get less steep.

This route climbs the featured vertical face that lies directly below the rap for Saddle Rocks. Climb up onto a flake then ascend the fun face above on postive holds ending on a large ledge. Not quite a sport climb but still adequately protected.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Saddle Rocks - Skirt (North Face)