Monet

Soldier Without Faith

Coldcocked

Red Hot Chili Powder

Anguish and Fear

Morrocan Roll

Johnny's Route

Unknown

Block Party

Purple People Eaters

Stalking Fred

Mogwai

Los Pepes

Montage

Pretty Fastidium

Transition Protocol

Peace Yo

Catching Fred

Killer Queen

Morpheus

John Cruiser Meloncrimp

The Mural

Ludlow Massacre

The Far Sky

Motif

Mother of Invention

Magnum Gropus

Mosaic

Protect the King

Marching Out

DeMartini

The Bobbit Effect

Located on the Mural Wall, this route takes the line directly right of the small tree up the blank near-vertical wall. A definite testpiece for the grade, the sustained climbing is characterized by sharp thin pockets. A full-on crux awaits near the top where a major crank off a finger-tip mono is necessary.

Start in the 7 foot crack to gain C1. Move past the crack to a chossy ledge at C2. Climb straight up past some brushy rock at C2 & C3 to much better stone with pockets, edges and great sidepulls. Start moving left at C5 on small but good holds with tricky feet through this crux section by the small bulge at C7. A great full hands ledge (reachy & out of sight above the bulge) will make this part easier to C8 and then on to the anchors.

This is a fun line that burls over a prominent, juggy roof.  The crux is just under the roof - a short series of thin and somewhat technical moves to jugs, where the roof-climbing starts.  There is another strenuous section after you get over the roof.

This line lies a couple hundred yards to the right of the Mural Wall, on the far right edge of this wall. Walk all the way right until you come to the fence and then look at the cliff.  The route has red angle-iron hangers, and the third bolt is a difficult clip.

My guide says 12b, but it seemed sort of easy for that grade.  But I'm not too sure, so I'll stick with the guide.

Start as for

Peace Yo

, but after bolt 2, move right and up toward the corner.

Aptly named, this route busts right from

Block Party

and climbs through the powdery, sandy red band of rock to better rock and the anchor.

Climb past the first two bolts of

Block Party

to a stance on top of the giant, detached flake. Get into the sandy, red rock and search around for the holds for two more bolts passing through the crux in the process. More sustained climbing on, thankfully, better rock takes you past two more bolts to the anchor.

The crux on this route is at the top. Lean out past a small roof and clip the anchors. Overall, this is an enjoyable climb with numerous large holds on vertical rock. The beginning of this route is 5.5 stemming with the first bolt about 12' off the deck. Gain a large ledge, and climb past 7 bolts to the anchors.

To find [Morrocan Roll], hike into the [Gallery] and follow the trail up to the [Mural Wall].  As you reach the base of the [Mural Wall], there is somewhat of a left facing corner.  On the right face should be a bolted line that starts out low angle and gradually steepens.  The top section is light tan rock and is kind of thin.

Slab your way up increasingly difficult rock and through the crux up at the top.  It's a pretty fun little route and worth doing if you are in the area.

Do a crux start to a dirty ledge to a crack.

There is a new route just to the right of

Stalking Fred

. Does anyone know what it is? It is fully bolted, felt 10c-ish, but is still a bit loose.

This climb is listed as a 10b in the guidebook, but 95% of the climb felt like easy 5.9.  This is wonderful route that should not be missed.  There are some huge holds on this climb.  The crux is probably clipping the anchors.  They are in an awkward position above a small roof. If the anchors were below the roof the climb, this climb would a three star 5.9.  Enjoy....

Thin, technical, and sort or reachy - it is a great line that ascends the far left side of the Mural Wall.  This is another great line on one of Shelf's best crags.

As implied above, it is the leftmost route on the Mural Wall.

Climb the obvious, nice, right-trending crack with great lefty sidepulls, tricky feet, and some reachy face holds for 3 clips to a dusty ledge.  On the ledge, move to the corner with varied edges, pockets and jams past C4 & C5. At C5, move to the left face past C6 to the chained anchors.

Located about 30 feet to the right of

John Cruiser Meloncrimp

. Locate

Meloncrimp

and hike past the barb wire fence and directly up to the wall. Climb the lower face with 1 clip to a good ledge, then gain the face above the ledge and continue with 6 clips to the anchors. Approx.75'. Stay out of the left corner system!

This has nice face climbing for 2 clips to a rest under the big bulge at C3. Blindly search for the better holds above the blond bulge.  Pull the sustained bulge with tricky hands and feet past 2 clips to the anchors.

Start with a broken flake system just to the left of a big boulder and gain the chossy ledge.  Climb the wide crack to pockets and then go past the twin cracks to the slot. Move up and out of the slot to the anchors.

Climbing begins on an easy pillar followed by moderate climbing into a stout, thin, reachy crux.

Fatter fingered climbers will find the crux more difficult, the key crux hold is a thin, shallow, two finger-half pad pocket.

The guide has 12c and the beta photo 12d. I couldn't decide, so I split the difference. It seemed too thin for 12c to me.

This is a fun route. Start with two clips on sharp rock to small ledge under nice clean, white face.

Cruise the lower slab, move around the crumbly ledge, and get your style on for a few cool moves up a clean face with pure movement.

Just right of the Mural Wall, pass one bolt on low 5th class climbing to reach a blonde face. Climb the crimps and other sharp holds to reach the crux bulge protecting the chains. Both current guidebooks list this as 12a. Maybe it was just the proximity to

Motif

, but to me, it felt easy for that grade.

This hand-crack to the right of "

Stalking Fred

" shares the same crux and anchors.

Stalking Fred

is a one move wonder, and this enjoyable hand-crack leads to that move above a bomber placement and after some surprisingly nice jamming. It went on a single rack and can be lead using only the final bolt of "

Stalking Fred

" or by finishing with some runout to the anchors.

Climb great, righty sidepulls for 2 clips to a strenuous reach to clip C3. At C3, traverse directly left with great hand holds and edges for the feet to clip the high C4. At C4, move right to the vertical corner on edges, pockets, and fun climbing to C6. At C7, move up or right to the gray face past C8 to the chained anchors.

This dreamy line is a great warmup for the harder lines to the right.  Begin just right of the round prow that marks the left end of the Mural Wall.  Sweet, juggy pockets lead over the clean, bulging face to a good stance below the first roof.  Turn the roof on the left, then step right to rest on the big ledge.  Once ready, head left and over the second roof.  The route finishes just up and left of a large bush on a ledge.  A bit of a soft touch at the grade?

To find this route, hike up to the [Mural Wall] and head right.  This route should be the last route before the barbed wire.  There is a large boulder near the base just right of the route.

This is a fun route.  Climb through a flake on good holds until you are confronted with the decision of which method to beat the crux.  Any way you do it you will probably have a good time.  Another well protected route with good bolt placement.

While the rock on this route may not be as quality as the other routes to its left, this newer line offers up some different styles of pulling compared to the hard tweaking moves of its neighbors.

Trend past three bolts of chunky rock to a tiny roof to gain the vertical crack on the nice upper face. Climb the crack and face punctuated with the occasional nice pocket to a short fin to a nice ledge and the anchors.

This route is not in the Fred Knapp book but is in the Bob D'Antonio guide.  The route is equipped with brown Fixe hangers and is just to the right of

M&M

.  The start begins with easier 5.10 moves and climbs to the discontinuous crack.  Get a good rest and start jamming flared fingers to a cruxy move out right.  From here, continue up easier terrain to the anchors.  The middle of this route shares some of the same jams as

M&M

, and the two should not be climbed at the same time.

This is yet another great Mural Wall route. Not as classic as

The Mural

or

Monet

, but with the boulder problem start, the difficult climbing is a bit longer.

This is the farthest right of the routes on the Mural Wall.  Begin with a boulder problem involving a thin move to a large hole.  A decent rest can be had before launching onto the steeper, blanker part of the wall.  Sustained pockets and edges lead to some juggy pockets below a final bulge.  Tricky back and forth climbing gets you through the bulge and to the anchors.

This route is around the corner from the fun route "

Block Party

". The route is sustained at the 5.10 level and has some fun moves near the top as the face holds disappear. There some fun moves working the arete, until you move back to the right to clip the last bolt and the anchor. Some of the bolts are in poor positions, since the biners would land on small ledges during a fall.

Certainly not a magnum opus, this fleeting route begins on an indistinct prow, just right of a dihedral.  A sequential start on small, sharp crimps and pockets leads to a brief slab, and crux moves along the white arete.  Unfortunately, it's easy to avoid this contrived crux by using the massive flake crack to the right.  An easy finish leads to the chains.

Mosaic another great Mural Wall route, though not as classic as

The Mural

or Monet. This is the route just left of the tree.

Easy climbing gains the business where the wall becomes steeper and blanker. Strenuous pockets, crimps, and liebacks (crux) lead to a system of juggy pockets below a final bulge. Confusion abounds here as the last bolt seems to suggest a direct finish, whereas easier but still difficult climbing leads a couple feet left of the bolt (you can still reach right to clip the bolt) to flakes and the anchor.

I thought that I might have cheated by going left at the last bulge but later TR'd the direct finish and couldn't for the life of me figure it out (given its grade). Vertical and blank with nothing to even clip the last bolt off of. I think if the direct version is the way to go, the final bolt would (or should) have been several feet lower. Some rock scars in here suggest that another possibility could be that some holds have broken. Maybe someone else who knows the route could comment on the finish?

Jam the crack for three to four clips to an easy chossy mid section. Go up following 4 clips using the left face and right arete to the anchors.

Gain the big flake from the left or right to the

very

high first clip.  Follow the bolts moving slightly right for 3 clips, then straight up for 3 clips up to the anchors.

Start on the large boulder and gain the short vertical face past C1 to a chossy ledge to get to C2.  Climb past the short low angled face and gain the crack on the left to C3.  Follow the nice consistent crack with great left hand jams and nice right hand face holds for 40 feet to the anchors.

To find this route, hike up to the base of the Mural Wall.  Head left about 50 feet, just past

Morrocan Roll

.  There will be another large corner.  On the left face, there is a bolted route that is just right of the arete.  This route is "

Mother of Invention

(10c)".  On the right wall is Bobbit Effect.  It starts with a bit of a slabby move and heads up on juggy rock to an awkward bulge.  It is well-protected.

Description

Protection

Routes in Mural Wall