Like the other trad crack routes at Sleeping Beauty, this is a little ugly and a little dirty and often a little wet. If not for that, this and the other crack routes would be 2 stars.

Start: as you traverse right on Ledge 2, there is a gap that you can pass either by squeezing behind a tree or by lowering down and then climbing back up. Just beyond this are the bolted climbs Wings of Desire and MLK and then the wide crack of Walk on the Wide Side.

P1: 5.9 sustained at the 5.8/5.9 level. Climb the hand crack left of the wide crack (

MLK

also climbs this crack) to the first bolt on MLK. Step right into the wide crack (#4 Friend). Move up into the slot and climb it with fun stemming with small gear (green/yellow/red Aliens). Optional belay above the slot. You could clip a bolt up and left on

MLK

for the belay. Continue up a pleasant hand crack with feet mostly on big slopers. The crack widens as it approaches an overhang with a spike of rock sticking out. Use a #3 Camalot. Stem up and grab the spike. It's a bit spooky, but seems to be solid. You can get a good nut above the spike. Stem up higher then step left and up. The

MLK

anchor can be seen to your left. Continue up a lower angle left facing corner with a few more jams to a good ledge on the right and the anchor, 115'.

P1 variation: the wide crack right of the regular start can be climbed at about 10a if you use the many knobs on its left side. It would be much harder if you used only crack technique. You'll want a #5 Camalot if you lead this.

P2: 5.7, sport. Angle right from the anchor to a "rib" and the first bolt. Continue up on pleasant climbing to the anchor. Since this anchor has no rings, continue straight right then up a bit to the anchor on

Immaculate Deception

.

Per

Dan Raymond

: the P2 anchor now has quicklinks.

Walk on the Wide Side

The Tree of Life

Arcanum

Lightspeed

Aerial Boundaries

The Wave

Crack of Dawn

Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid

Kama Sutra

Mystic Mile

Eight Miles High

Prince Charmer

Immaculate Deception

Mind Bender

Wings of Desire

Approach from the Beer Can Trail and go left along the base of Sleeping Beauty Slab. The trail climbs up to ledge near some small pine trees. Go right across the ledge to a obvious, wide, black crack. The route starts here. Climb the thin hand (with gear) crack (just left of the black crack) up a near vertical slab. Reach the first bolt and then place gear under a good flake. Climb up short, left-facing corner to a good ledge. Follow the line of bolts up a cool black face making several hard moves to a overhang. Climb on small holds past the overhang and up the clean face to the anchor. Excellent slab climbing on solid rock. Be careful lowering as a 60 meter rope just makes it to the ground!

This route is an interesting hybrid that links the first 40 feet of

Kama Sutra

to the last 50 feet of

Wings of Desire

.  Jam through the crux roof on KS and climb to a stance beneath the offwidth section.  Stem right, clip a lone bolt beneath a roof, then make difficult moves into a previously unclimbed crack that runs parallel to KS, maybe 10 feet to the right. Have 1-inch gear at the ready. Jam straight up the crack to a point very near KS, then follow the crack system up and right to a point where it is easy to reach right and clip the 12th bolt on Wings.  The finish is obvious from here (straight up).

Arcanum is a "mixed" route, some trad, some bolts. The crux section is short but steep, hands and fingers. The bolts are where they are needed--gear would be non-existent (pitch 2) or small and funky (bottom and top of pitch 1). The rock on the first pitch is a little ugly, but solid and reasonably clean.

Begin near a large pine, a few feet left of a big flake that leans against the wall. This is right of the flake of

Eight Miles High

/

Mind Bender

.

Pitch 1: Climb a moderate slab past two bolts, then make a few hard moves up a steep finger and hand crack (crux). Continue past another bolt to the anchor and a small stance. (10a, 90 feet)

Pitch 2: Clip a bolt, then make an 8 or 9 move to gain the low angle slab. When it steepens, place a red Alien or equivalent (I used a #1 offset Friend) to protect the second clip. This clip is not that hard, but you are way run out, and you need to step onto the steeper wall to make the clip. A few 8ish moves lead past 2 more bolts to the anchor. Just below the anchor is a bolt without a hanger. Perhaps the was going to be the anchor, or perhaps the hanger was removed to add some moderate spice (it's pretty easy at this point). (5.8-9, 85 feet)

Approach: See

Richard Rossiter's site

for the approach to Sleeping Beauty. At the left side of Ledge Two, to the right of where the trail meets the cliff, is a tree growing against the rock and touching the overhang about 10' up. 15' left of the tree is a hand crack through the overhang. That's

Kama Sutra

, 10d. 10' left of that are bolts through the overhang at some obvious knobs. This is Lightspeed.

The route: The roof is the crux. I did it as a high heel hook with a struggle to pull over my foot. My partner Chuck Graves did it as a mantle with butt on the lip. Neither was pretty. Higher up, at about the 3rd or 4th bolt, stay right, and then step back left. Easier climbing leads to the finish just right of the start of Aerial Boundaries. 85 feet.

Between

Kama Sutra

and Lightspeed is the namesake trad route Sleeping Beauty, 5.10, FA Dan Hare and Scott Woodruff, 1983. It looks to me that Lightspeed and Sleeping Beauty share the same start, and therefore the start of Sleeping Beauty is now bolted. If this is the case, it appears that the bolts do not significantly change the nature of Sleeping Beauty, since there are gear possibilities at the roof.

This route follows a rounded arete down and right of Black Rain.  A fun route that goes free at 5.12a/b, or can be done with one point of aid at 5.10a A0.

Follow the approach described in Black Rain.  Go 40' up the ramp right of Black Rain, then climb down to a small exposed  ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.  Belay from here.  Climb up past three bolts to a small roof (10a).  Angle up right and clip the fourth bolt over the roof.  Make a difficult move (12a/b) or yard on the quickdraw (A0) and step left to surmount the roof.  Continue up the blunt arete past six more bolts to a good ledge with a two-bolt anchor.  Belay from here.  The climbing route is 120' long.

Rappel 105' with two ropes or one 70m rope back to the ramp above the start.  It may be possible to rappel with one 60m rope but you will be at the very ends of the rope.

Two stars for good rock, fun moves, and a wild move over the roof.

Start from the anchor atop the first pitch of

Mystic Mile

. Traverse right and down to a huge, left-facing dihedral. Clip the first bolt, and power up and right via an undercling/lieback. Finish at an anchor shared with

Eight Miles High

.

I don't claim to world class climber, but compared to the other 10a's at Sleeping Beauty, all of which I had success on, this route seems way harder. My partner regularly climbs hard 11 and had to hang on this thing...I got completely shut down. Has anyone else felt this way? And is there a manufactured hold just underneath the horizontal crack? Has anyone done this using the left-facing dihedral instead the horizontal crack?

Crack of Dawn may be named after the famous Yosemite wide cracks Crack of Doom and Crack of Despair. This would be 2 stars if it was cleaner, but, due to water running down the crack, it may never be really clean.

Start on ledge 2 at the first crack system left of

Mystic Mile

.

Mystic Mile

can be identified by a 2 bolt anchor just above the ledge. See beta photo.

P1: 90' 10b: Make a couple moves up the crack then swing left onto the face to bypass the overhang. Using a combination of crack and face/slab moves continue up to a left facing corner where the rock steepens. The crux section follows. Climb the wide crack using somewhat hidden footholds until you can reach hand jams. Use the #4 Camalot here if you brought one. Pull up to the roof and optionally place a #4 Friend/3.5 Camalot. This section was wet today after the last several days of afternoon rain. It may often be wet. Using a fist jam or an undercling, or a rounded horizontal on the right wall, reach out to a bucket at the lip beyond a bolt. I had to hangdog this section on self-belay, so I'm not sure, but you may want to clip the bolt after reaching the arete. High step onto the arete and stand, and you're done with the crux. Step back left into the crack and continue with some stems to a ledge. You could belay here if you are running low on gear, but the wide crack above is much easier than it looks. You need one or two hand-sized cams and a #3 Camalot to finish the pitch. Continue up the crack at about 5.8 until it gets wide again. Move up on big footholds to clip the 2nd bolt and make an 8ish move to gain a good foothold in the crack. Another couple of easy moves lead to a ledge and the anchor.

P2: 70' 5.9: I got rained off and didn't do this pitch. It looks very low angle with many dishes. Rossiter says it's 5.9. Maybe so, but it looks way easier. Leave any trad gear at the belay, since this pitch is sport.

Start just right of

Mind Bender

at a single bolt belay on a large ledge. Climb straight up from the anchor follow a line of bolts to a small overhang. Veer right under the overhang, reach for good holds and fire straight up to a good stance. At the 7th bolt, you could go left or right.  Stay left for this route - the right ones are for Arcanum.  Continue up on good holds to a short corner then swing right and then straight up to the anchor. Good route with good protection and holds.

Anyone wishing to change, pull or chop the bolts must get permission by everyone in the FA party.

The is the best of the trad crack climbs at Sleeping Beauty. It would be 3 stars if cleaner, but as is it is cleaner than the other crack climbs here. Rossiter calls the initial ceiling 10d. It felt about 10b to us--perfect, straightforward jams. I had more trouble higher up at the wide spot that Rossiter calls 5.9.

Start: At the left end of Ledge 2 is a "gap" in the ledge where you either have to traverse on the rock and squeeze behind a tree, or drop down about 8 feet and climb back up. Just left of this gap is a hand crack through the ceiling. This is the route. Just left of this the bolted

Lightspeed

climbs the same ceiling.

P1. The climb: Climb the ceiling on perfect jams and gear. Easier climbing follows the crack to where it gets wide. Use the #3 Camalot here. I thought the wide section was quite hard. I did a couple of fist jams. My partners used various other techniques. Rossiter says you can, instead, move left at 10c and up a flared hand crack at 5.9. I considered that....  55 feet.

P2. Above the wide section, pass a small tree and then follow a very fun, thin, 8-ish crack that angles slightly left. There are lots of scoops,

etc.

for your feet, so it's more like face climbing with the crack for gear. The crack is slightly discontinuous, but there is good gear when you need it. There are quite a few grass tufts in the crack, but they do not detract from the climbing. At the top, when the angle eases way back, get a directional and angle left to the anchors on

Aerial Boundaries

and a comfortable belay.  100 or 120 feet.

Descent: Two raps from bolts with rings with a single rope or a single rap with two ropes.

Mystic Mile is a good climb on good clean rock, with a few hard moves low down on the first pitch, and another hard move on pitch two, with a lot of somewhat easier nice slab climbing in between.

Mystic Mile starts from "Ledge Two" at a small tree growing at the base of the wall, 15 feet left of the rap anchor for Into the Mystic. This anchor is at eye level as you walk along Ledge Two. The start is 20 feet right of the first big tree on Ledge Two. 100 feet up the wall above this tree is a prominent double tree. Ledge Two is reached by following the trail along the base of Sleeping Beauty to its end where it scrambles steeply up to the left end of Ledge Two, a long ledge with several large trees.

Pitch 1 (10c, 10 bolts, 100 feet): Climb past a roof near the ground on its right side. Step left then undercling right and up (good cam for extra pro) to a ceiling. Reach over the ceiling to big holds, clip, and pull over with a gymnastic move that is harder than it looks, given the great hand holds. This was the crux for me. The climbing below is also pretty hard. Climb a slab left of a small dirty corner to the anchor at a good stance. The double tree is now directly left.

Pitch 2 (9+, 7 bolts, 90 feet): Continue up the slab left of a large, left-facing corner, then move right into the corner. Place optional gear, move onto the arête and reach over the roof to clip a bolt. It looks hard to clear the roof, but it's only above 5.9 via a surprising move. Continue to the top past 3 more bolts staying left of some dirty thin cracks.

Although you could rap to the ground with two ropes, due to the low-angle rock, it's safer to do two one-rope rappels.

This route is probably easier than 10c by trad standards (10a?). I self-belayed this and was pretty solid, which is not the case when I lead 10c trad in Eldo.

I'm giving this route two stars because of the really cool arete move, despite the fact that the climbing to that point is easy and a little dirty, and despite the totally unnecessary first 8 bolts. The first 8 bolts are all next to good and easily-placed gear on easy climbing (maybe one 5.8 move). Why are these cracks bolted? The bolt on the arete, the bolt above that, and the anchors are the only bolts needed. Other routes on this wall (e.g., Arcanum) do not have bolts where there is good gear.

Start 30 feet right of

Mystic Mile

, just left of a flake leaning against the base of the wall, midway between two large trees.

Pitch 1 (10a, 8 bolts, 130 feet): Eight Miles High shares the first 6 bolts with

Mind Bender

, a 12a A0(?). Climb easy and somewhat dirty rock to a steep headwall.

Mind Bender

continues straight up. Instead, clip the 6th bolt with a long sling and traverse straight left to a horizontal hand crack. Clip the 8th bolt with a long sling, place a yellow Alien above to protect the reachy clip of the 9th bolt on the arête. Teeter up the exposed crux move to a good stance. Clip another bolt and climb straight up at about 5.9, or move right a bit, to the anchors and a small but good stance.

The Wave

(10a) climbs to these same anchors from below and left. The arete section could be much harder if you are short. If you are tall enough, you can rest right on the arete prior to doing the crux.

With a 70m rope you can lower to the ground (rope drag might be bad). With a 60m rope the belayer would have to climb up a bit (tie in to the end!). Plan B would be to bring the second up and rap (100').

Pitch 2 (5.6, 3 bolts, 80 feet): I didn't climb this pitch. This is according to Rossiter: Ascend a sloping shelf, a slab, and belay from a tree at the top of the wall. Exit right to Serenity Ledge. 80'.

Follow the trail up to the first ledge. Go left and then up to the far left side of cliff. Start in the obvious corner just left of

Aerial Boundaries

. Stem up the short corner over a small roof. Tend left and up to the first bolt. Make a cool move and clip the second bolt. Reach a ledge and follow the crack up to a steep slab. Clip the third bolt and make a dicey move to gain the slab. Climb on good hold up past two more bolt and reach the anchor on a large ledge. This route is still a little dirty but should clean-up with more ascents. Good route for aspiring 5.9 leader.

This is a one-move climb with decent 5.9 climbing below and above the crux, and a hard direct start that should be posted separately. Rossiter calls the crux overhang 11a. For someone of my height (6' 2") it's much easier but tricky to figure it out. Not sure how to rate this. It might be 10a for me. Might be 11a if you're shorter.

Start: Just right of the wide crack of Walk on the Wide Side is a thin, somewhat flared crack with several bolts leading to an overhang. This is the direct start. Rossiter says this is 11c/d. Right of this is a left facing corner just left of a large tree with 3 bolts on the slab above the tree.

P1: Start up the corner then step right onto the slab. 5.8ish moves lead to the third bolt. Traverse left to 2 bolts with rings. This is the anchor for the direct start. You could belay here. Continue up and left to a big platform below an overhang with a bolt above it. You can place a yellow Alien to make the clip. The clip isn't that difficult, but you're a long way above the anchor. Make the one move crux and step right to the crack and get gear. Climb the bulge right of the crack on jugs, and continue following the crack, with gear in the crack, but mostly climbing right of the crack. The crack gets wide below an overhang. A #4 Camalot makes it easy to protect the next move. If you didn't bring it, a #3 Camalot will work lower, or you can work a little harder to get a piece higher in the back of the crack. A couple of jams get you high enough to swing out left onto the face. Pull back right, and easy climbing leads to a double tree on the left side of the ledge. Move right on the ledge to the

Crack of Dawn

anchors.

You could continue with the

Crack of Dawn

second pitch (5.8 or 9) or P2 of

Walk on the Wide Side

(5.7, above the trees and a bit left) or even traverse right to join

Mystic Mile

.

Start on the very right side of the upper ledge. Climb up a nice slab leading into a steep corner. Good holds and protection will get you to the crux move right before the anchor.  Good route on good stone.

This is referred to as "The Awakening" in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guide.

This is a long pitch with several hard sections. On the easier climbing, the bolts are further apart to keep you focused.

Approach: See Richard Rossiter's site for the approach to Sleeping Beauty:

boulderclimbs.com/climbing/…

.

At the left side of Ledge Two, to the right of where the trail meets the cliff, is a tree growing against the rock and touching the overhang about 10' up. 15' left of the tree is a hand crack through the overhang. That's

Kama Sutra

, 10d. Start 8' right of this tree. Climb the ceiling at about 5.10, angle right, and then make some hard thin moves back left at the 4th bolt across a steep slab. The 5th bolt is hidden in the dish above. Don't move right at this steep slab. The silver bolts to the right are

MLK

. Angle left on easy rock below some serious moss and then up a steep slab with a short hard section. Continue up an easier slab at about 5.9 connecting a series of rounded, right-facing flakes to a sloping ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. Rappel with two ropes.

Description

Protection

Routes in Main Wall