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Peak Mountain 3

Make or Break Flake

FA Dan Dingle, Chris Carpenter and Guy Wordsall, May 1977
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A strenuous start (crux) in a right-facing flare (fingers/thin hands in the back) gives way to good hand jams with marginal feet as you gain the start of the flake proper, which takes a jagged line up the face before cutting left below the top (#4 Camlaot or equivalent is useful). Continue up the face past a single bolt (5.10-) via thin edges and delicate smears to the top. You'll want to save some gear to 3" for the anchor; descent is via the gully to the right.

Fun climbing combined with two very distinct and disparate cruxes, all on great rock, make this a very worthwhile route to do when in the area. Two stars out of five.

Location

This unique climb is the left-most route at the White Cliffs Of Dover proper, and climbs a flake to face just left of

Quest for Fire

.

Protection

pro to 4", bolt (3/8")