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Magical Thinking
Description
This starts at the same hold as the other climbs. Climbs through Toni Harp's Resignation until you get to the arete crimp about 12-15ft off the deck. This is where the crux is, from here you need to find a way to the sloper lip. This is pretty mellow up to the crux, but you really need to commit on this one.
It is the black line on the beta photo...
Location
Normal start as the other climbs. You will see the rest crimp on the arete 3/4 way up, from there, instead of rocking onto the slab to end it like Toni Harp's Resignation, you just climb directly up the overhung face to the slopey lip. Walk off the back to the trail.
Protection
Lots of pads, more than 1 spotter, and the commitment/courage of a hometown hero, because a fall from the lip will be really scary and hard on the legs...
Routes in Toni Harp Bloc
- 2Magical ThinkingV7Bouldering