We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Beast Of Burden

FA Charlie Fowler
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start below and slightly right of the first bolt with an obvious, right hand sidepull and left hand edge. Pull off the ground, and launch immediately into the crux - a long boulder problem full of tenuous, fingery, and powerful climbing that doesn't end until reaching the third bolt. The climbing is your typical Ophir mix of sidepulls, gastons, and slippery footholds that all seem to be at not quite the right angle. Upon reaching the third bolt, the difficulty eases and the holds get bigger. After the fourth bolt, move slightly right for a marginal placement in a flaring crack or gun it for the anchors, which are set back from the lip and guarded by a few more insecure moves.

The climbing breaks down to a long V8/9 boulder problem from the ground to the third bolt and then probably 5.11ish climbing from there to the anchors.

This is a brilliant and engaging testpiece on high quality rock that is one of the underappreciated gems of the Dark Side.

Location

Located in the center of The Beastly Wall, this route is obvious, since it's the only fully bolted line on the wall.

Protection

4 bolts to an anchor with chains. Optional gear placements exist above the 4th bolt, but they're all fairly marginal. Without it, it's somewhat runout from the 4th bolt to the anchors. Stickclipping the 1st bolt is highly recommended, and the route is commonly climbed with the 2nd bolt pre-clipped as well, as clipping is very challenging through the crux with groundfalls likely if you blow it.


Routes in The Beastly Wall


  1. 1
    Beast Of Burden
    5.13b/c
    Sport