John's Own Stone

This route tackles the tallest continuous line up the main south face. While broken-up by a ledge at 1/4 height, the climbing is quite sustained and varied with 3 different style cruxes. Start with an easy slab to the first bolt and into some tricky friction moves to gain the ledge. From the ledge, boulder up and right past a couple of bolts to easy terrain on cool chickenheads. Follow bolts up and left, and engage into the steep bulge using long moves on good holds (if you find them).

Like all things in climbing, when you figure out the beta, the route will feel easier. I originally called this 5.10-, but too many of my friends called it a sandbag, so hopefully people get on it and come to a consensus. It was equipped, cleaned, and sent it with my wife and one month-old boy some time ago and climbed by some homies a couple of times afterwards. I'm not sure if its seen much traffic since, so you may want to bring a brush. Regardless, you'll find great moves on good stone that will bring a smile to your face and a pump in your arms.

Take the trail down to the falls from the Upper Maxwell Falls trailhead. Once past the fallsmand down some switchbacks, find a trail heading up to the main south-facing wall. John's Own Stone is the furthest left route of the three encountered here.

8 or 9 quickdraws and some long runners for the set back anchors. While toproping on your gear is fine on your rope, you may want to rap down to clean the pitch instead of lowering.